The Jam Tree, Clapham

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Brunch, Sundays, Small Groups

Last night’s whisky barely worn off, the only way to sort it out is a Sunday roast and a Bloody Mary.

Bring on the Jam Tree! From the guys who brought you Fu Manchu, Clapham North (Click HERE for Review!)

Keep in mind, the venue was reviewed on a Sunday morning, so the Hoodooist can’t speak for how crowded it might get on a Saturday night, but it certainly looks like a party venue with the Wrong Trousers Day!

But this Sunday brought the sun back out, and the large outdoor lounging area was open behind the hidden bookcase bar. Shades donned, roasts ordered, the Hoodooist and pal went through three rounds: Two drinks from the Bloody Mary menu, two from the usual cocktail menu, and two from off the menu.

The Bloody Marys: a Classic, and a Wasabi Mary. The Classic Bloody Mary is exactly what you want from it – just the right amount of savour sauce and Tabasco kick.

The Wasabi Mary adds (wait for it) wasabi and soy sauce, much to the Hoodooist’s delight. A nice jolt first thing in the morning.

Foreground: Damson in a Dress; Background: Confiture

Post-Roast (the highlight of which is the fantastic black pudding), two cocktails from the menu were ordered: the Damson in a Dress, and Confiture.

The signature cocktail list is lengthy, definitely. But has a slight drawback. They’ve all tried a bit too hard to fit into the ‘jam’ theme – which doesn’t always work to their advantage.

Neither the Confiture, nor the Damson were satisfactory, and seemed forced, though their ideas were good. You see what you get with The Confiture – Cariel Vanilla Vodka, raspberry jam, pineapple juice and Chambord, comes off a bit muddled, and should be served at a lower temperature, if possible.

The Damson in a Dress, dressed up in chocolate net, brought Damson Vodka, Martini Bianco, lime jam and prosecco together, but tasted overwhelmingly of Martini Bianco. Can’t think of a way to help this one.

Foreground: Laphroaig 10yr Old Fashioned; Background: Maker’s Mark Whisky Sour

But there is an upside! Ordering off-menu proved to be a good idea – showing that the skills are present.

A Maker’s Mark Sour is what you’d want from a Sour – the lemon juice tempers the distinct bourbon’s spices, butterscotch and vanilla, with an oaky finish.

And a Laphroaig 10yr Old Fashioned is served with slow-melting ice (well done). Excellently dry and smoky, the sugar brings out the medicinal flavours full force. Once the iodine flavour dies down, it’s followed by seaweed, maybe liquorice? Very enjoyable to lie back and relax with.

Our bartender seemed rather pleased for the off-menu order, especially with the particular whisky orders – off menu seems to be the way to go!

Service is excellent, at least on these quiet Sunday mornings – attentive, swift, conversational.

The Jam Tree is attempting to add the cocktail bar to the gastropub and succeeds so far as classics are always successful when made with a keen hand. However, the signature cocktail list needs much to be desired since a cocktails cannot be twisted into any form to fit a theme. But the talent is present, so if in the area in need of brunch with a fab Bloody Mary on the side, Clapham has a spot.

Drinks: Signature Cocktails: *, Bloody Marys and off-menu drinks: ***
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ****

The Jam Tree Clapham

13 – 19 Old Town,
London SW4 0JT

http://www.thejamtree.com/clapham/

Grown-Ups @ Black Vanilla, Greenwich

Jun15

Type of Bar: Gelato, Sorbet
Damage: £
Ideal For: Date, Small Groups

Anyone who’s been down to Greenwich Market has seen the queues into the gelateria on College Approach, and with the coming of summer, Black Vanilla has expanded their offerings into the cocktail world!
Readers will recognise Black Vanilla from the Hoodooist’s Guide to Greenwich (Click HERE!)

In partnership with World of Zing’s world food emporium (you might remember their flavoured salts at El Nivel: Click HERE!), the upstairs at Black Vanilla is officially for #GrownUps! Painstakingly chosen summery sorbets are paired alongside Zing’s ready-to-drink bottled cocktails.

Perched on a high-winged armchair beside the fireplace, under crystal chandelier overlooking Greenwich, a sorbet and cocktail pairing come at about 7.50-8.50 GBP on Fridays-Sundays, till a glorious 11PM.

Persian Lime & Nori Seaweed Margarita, with Kiwi Sorbetto

The first round brings in a Persian Lime & Nori Seaweed Margarita, paired with a Kiwi Sorbetto: Ocho Blanco and Reposado tequila mixed in with agave syrup for a Tommy’s Margarita, then World of Zing’s Dried Persian Lime and Nori Seaweed infusion added in. The Persian lime seems to heighten the citrus notes of the Margarita, with a fairly powerful bite, blending well the light saltiness of the Nori. When paired with a lightly textured kiwi, the sweetness of the sorbetto is highlighted wonderfully.

Bordeaux Barrel Aged Negroni, with Sicilian Lemon Sorbetto

Probably the Hoodooist’s favourite: the award winning Bordeaux Barrel Aged Negroni brings Tanqueray Export Strength to Gancia Rosso Vermouth, Campari and Zing Bespoke Serenity Bitters. It’s good to see Gancia Rosso being used, it doesn’t make much of an appearance in many bars these days. The aromatic Gancia comes through well in the Negroni as the aging allows the vermouth to mature, powering past the strong flavours of the Campari. When paired with the spectacularly refreshing and lively Sicilian Lemon Sorbetto, you get a confident, and certainly Grown Up, couple.

Steel Aged Manhattan, with Black Cherry Sorbetto

Now this one was interesting, the Steel Aged Manhattan: Bulleit Rye Whiskey, Gancia Rosso Vermouth, Zing Bespoke Anaesthetic Brandy & Zing Bespoke Euphoric Bitters. You will want to be specific about your garnish! Using either a fresh or a maraschino cherry can alter the flavour of your drink entirely.

When served with a fresh cherry, expect to have the vermouth and brandy take centre stage, with the woody roundedness heightened. When served with a maraschino cherry, the mineral and biting Bulleit Rye will make itself known – and these are from the same bottle!

A classic rye Manhattan, paired with a supremely creamy Black Cherry Sorbetto, powerfully sweet to take the edge off the Manhattan.

Blackberry & Tamarind Rum Punch, with Mango Sorbetto

Finally, the Blackberry and Tamarind Rum Punch is a truly unique combo. The rum is softened with blackberries, then married with the tangy flavours of tamarind, with a touch of honey and chamomile water to provide a smooth, sweet cocktail to pair with the rich Mango Sorbetto.

Barrel Aged Negroni Sorbet!

Finally, a surprise visit from a cocktail and sorbet in one! The Barrel Aged Negroni Sorbet is a double whammy at a whopping 6% ABV, and communicates the Negroni wonderfully, tinted pink with hibiscus.

A fun, unique, and frankly, invaluable, addition to Greenwich, Grown Ups took an already excellent gelato bar and presented us with something fantastic. Here’s to hoping Grown Ups has found a permanent residence at Black Vanilla.

Kudos to both Black Vanilla and World of Zing for little something for the grownups to enjoy!

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ****

http://www.black-vanilla.com/

http://www.worldofzing.com/

Bussey Rooftop Bar, Peckham Rye

Jun12

Type of Bar: Rooftop
Damage: £ – ££
Ideal for: Date, Small Groups, Large Groups, View, Live Music

Finally, a good summer rooftop bar.

There have been quite a few summer bars around this June, but so far, the Bussey Rooftop Bar is rocketing to the Hoodooist’s top.

Built to chill with live music, only 6 floors up, but with stunning views of the hills to the South and of the City to the North. Serving up film-themed drinks with Pizza Pilgrims baking up a storm, chilled out covers of Eurythmics sail through the air as the similarly relaxed cocktail list helps you relax far, far away from the noise of the city. And quality drinks for 7 quid? Winning.

Walking up 6 flights of stairs is rather worth it.

However, I’d add some, or at least store away emergency, umbrellas/shades somewhere. The British summer can be deceptive, and the last thing you need is a sudden shower while sipping on your Jerk Daiquiri (although, would be hilarious to watch the rooftop-yoga group next door get soaked).

The Jerk Daiquiri

Speaking of the Jerk Daiquiri: Appleton V/X rum, Jerk Syrup, lime juice – simple, elegant, does the job. Appleton V/X is a much lighter rum than its popular Estate 12yr brother, and is a good choice for the cocktail. You’re first hit with the jerk syrup – the allspice, and bite of the Scotch Bonnet, the myriad of warm spices – followed by the fruit entry of the rum. Orange followed by the pepper, finally resting on the lime juice. Relaxed, summery, beachy. Simplicity works.

The Negrita

The Negrita is an attempt at mixing some of the Hoodooist’s favourite cocktails: San Cosme Mezcal, Campari, Cocchi Torino (here substituted with Martini Rosso and extra orange). The substitution of Martini Rosso and orange works well, regardless. The most powerful flavour coming from the Campari, but once that fades, from the Campari and vermouth haze the mezcal emerges. Complex and smokey, with a caramelly finish. A great twist on a classic.

The Thai Punch

Being summer, the Hoodooist decided to go with a long drink. Well, not really. He just read the word ‘chilli’ and was sold. The Thai Punch takes the coconut rum Koko Kanu and infuses it with kaffir lime leaf, chilli, ginger, and lemongrass tail – finally adding pineapple, lime and palm sugar to top off the drink. Cold and spicy, the Thai Punch leaves palate dancing between the spices, most notably the lemongrass tail and ginger, lengthened by the pineapple, ending with the sweetness of the coconut and a chilli strike at the back of the throat. Long it might be, but this drink takes a while to finish.

Memento of a great bar team

Finally, the Memento is…. Anything you’d want it to be. Anything using 50 Pounds Gin, that is. Called Memento since the drink comes with a Polaroid snapshot of the night. In this case, a Polaroid of our fabulous bartenders and a Martinez. So the usual gin, sweet vermouth, maraschino and bitters, a good ole classic.

The team, run by the wonderful Joe of El Nivel (Click HERE for Review!) fame, are incredibly talented, bringing their skills from around the world, and a barrel of laughs. Smooth and swift cocktail preparation.

And don’t forget the food! Enjoy the setting sun with Pizza Pilgrims cooking up personal Margherita, Nduja, or Portobello mushroom pizzas – or roll it up into a calzone. It’s a personal pizza, you can do it, we believe in you.

The pretention that tends to fester around rooftop bars (or the clientele they attract) is absent at the Bussey Rooftop, instead presenting us with a spacious, chilled out venue to lie back and relax in, with a Negrita in hand to enjoy what the much ignored side of South East London has to offer.

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: *** – **** (you really, really don’t want it to rain here)
Service: *****

Bussey Rooftop Bar

133 Rye Lane, Peckham Rye,
London SE15 4ST

http://www.busseyrooftopbar.com/

The Macallan Residence, Temple

Jun8

Macallan whisky took over the gorgeous Two Temple Place 2^nd and 3^rd June – dubbed The Macallan Residence, visitors received a walk through the Macallan 1824 line, along with cocktails and a whisky/chocolate pairing hosted by Artisan du Chocolat.

Between sessions on being taught to make Macallan twists on Old Fashioned, and chats over carefully selected chocolates, Esquire provided tailoring, monogramming, shoeshining – that is, when you’re not busy at the photobooth.

And why wouldn’t you be? Two Temple Place is a spectacular venue, between the library, lounge, study and VIP room, it’s difficult to choose where to spend most of your time.

The Gold Rush and keys to the Residence

The evening begins with a Gold Rush cocktail – Macallan Gold, Galliano and ginger beer – a simple, but very effective, refresher for the summer, paired with a Scotch Egg, as one walks down an exhibition on the preparation of Macallan whisky.

Wayne Collins’ Old Gold masterclass

While sipping a Macallan Rare, with its richer and thicker palate of raisins, orange and ginger, Wayne Collins runs us through preparing the Old Gold.

The Old Gold twists an Old Fashioned into using Macallan Gold, ginger syrup, and chocolate bitters. The palest of the 1824 range, the Macallan Gold’s toffee and cinnamon follows the initial ginger kick, with the chocolate bitters bringing out the whisky’s natural cocoa notes.

More of the Old Golds

We taste more of the Macallan Gold when it is paired with Artisan du Chocolat’s Basil and Lime Dark Chocolate. The beautifully herbaceous chocolate first brings out the Gold’s savoury flavours, and the lime lifts it up after, for a wonderfully summery pairing.

Next, the Macallan Amber, the oilier whisky, buttery with notes of winter fruits and lemon, rich, with a somewhat earthy and cinnamon finish – is paired with Dark Chocolate Sea-Salted Caramel. The Amber’s more forceful notes are heightened, and the heat in the whisky is brought out strongly by the salty-sweet caramel.

The next of the 1824 range, the Sienna instantly hits the nose with Demerara sugar, orange and something floral. The palate is similarly warming and sweet, very autumnal. Paired with Dark Chocolate Ganache infused with Tazmanian Honey, the floral sweetness of the honey immediately brings out all those floral notes in the Sienna, a very uplifting combination.

Finally, the spectacularly coloured Macallan Ruby struts onto the stage with major spice and glacé cherry nose, a palate that is deep and warm like an evening at the fireplace – oaky, raisin, leather, char, dates and winter sweetness, a candied orange peel finish. Paired with Tobacco infused Dark Chocolate Ganache, caramel, coffee and vanilla hit you and take you to that leather Chesterfield armchair at the fireplace.

This Speyside whisky knows how to throw a party. And will be back on the 8^th and 9^th of June, participating in The Telegraph Whisky Experience, alongside many popular whiskies. Information on the Telegraph Whisky Experience can be found here: CLICK!

http://www.themacallan.com/

#EspressoMartiniMonth @ the Grind

Jun5

Locations: Soho, Shoreditch, Holborn, London Bridge
Damage: £

Weekend’s here!

Perking up and letting your hair down at the same time might look like a dilemma, but not this June 2015! Espresso Martini Month descending upon the various Grind café bars around London, in partnership with Merlet Cognac.

For all of June, the Grinds release four limited edition cognac cocktails that run at 5 pounds, and quite honestly, knocking its vodka-based brothers out of the shop.

The Merlet Brother’s Blend VSOP has a rich, light nose: apricots, vanilla, winter spice. The palate brings out those stone fruits, and goes fantastically with the newly launched Merlet C2 coffee liqueur.

The nose of the C2 is gorgeous, roasting beans and coffee, vanilla and cocoa, followed by the lighter scents from its cognac base. The palate brings out the very same flavours with bit of a spice kick, and something much like liquorice.

Together with sugar syrup and the Grind’s signature espresso, the limited edition Espresso Martini is a fresh change from the traditional vodka based drink, and brings out the fruit flavours of the spirits involved, and spreads out the notes in the coffee.

In short? That’s a pretty damn good Espresso Martini. And that’s coming from someone who isn’t a fan of Espresso Martinis in the first place. Smooth, rich, sweet, with a bite.

But that’s not all, the Grinds present two alternatives: a Vanilla, and an Orange Espresso Martini!

Using homemade (literally, right there in a saucepan on the stove), syrups, the Vanilla Espresso Martini is certainly the sweeter of the two, and with a powerful vanilla flavour, is built to be a dessert drink.

The Orange Espresso Martini, however, is much more subtle, and though does not scream ‘orange’, brings out the citrus flavours of the cognac with itself, providing a much lighter experience than the Vanilla.

As a Merlet bonus, the Grinds will also be serving up Sidecars (Merlet Brothers Blend Cognac, triple sec, lemon juice) with this month’s menu!

5 quid to make morning drinking and night coffees acceptable – it’s a small price to pay.

Check out the Grind locations below!

Fu Manchu, Clapham North

Jun1

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, Late Night, Chinese
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Food, Party, Small Groups, Large Groups

Seconds away from the tube, Arch 635 has been revamped to become a ‘restaurant/bar/nightclub’, with an Edwardian/Opium Den twist, named after the controversial character of Dr. Fu Manchu.

The Flowering Lily & Jasmine Cha

I have pointed out problematic themes in the past, such as the issues faced at the Powder Keg Diplomacy, Wandsworth (Click HERE for Review) – and will do so here as well.

Those who know the inspiration of author Sax Rohmer’s infamous villain know that the Doctor isn’t just an antagonist, but introduced in the book ‘The Mystery of Fu Manchu’ as the “Dr. Fu Manchu, the Yellow Peril incarnate in one man” – a character that did not help the widespread Sinophobia present in the UK in the early 1900s. The portraits of actors in yellow-face in the corridors might supposedly be ironic, I don’t quite see the point. If it is one designer’s glorification of a character they like, it’s pretty dated.

Outside the embarrassing yellowface, Fu Manchu also happily invited Dapper Laughs to perform at their venue. Make if it what you will.

Anyway, décor-wise, the arch is kept primarily empty to allow space for partying and socialising, while the banquettes circling the room provide raised seating for diners, guarded by decorative wooden Chinese panelling. Expect much calmer music in the afternoons, and in the late evenings, some soulful or deep house, and nu disco for your dim sum by candlelight in the purple-hued room.

The Mai Chai

Cocktail-wise, the drinks are a large variety, and themed as well – though not many on the short and neat side.

What you want to order is the Blood of Fu Manchu – at first glance it might *just* seem like a twist on the Bloody Mary, which it essentially is – but will surprise upon first sip. Eristoff vodka, Chinese 5 Spice, 10 yr old Port, ginger puree, oyster sauce and chilli powder, topped up with tomato juice. Much like the Asian Bloody Mary by The Manhattans Project (Click HERE for Review!), it takes inspiration for East Asian ingredients to make an absolutely fantastic cocktail. The salt of the oyster sauce really does the trick to balance out the Port and ginger puree’s sweetness, and the result is a well-balanced, spicy funfest that the Hoodooist highly recommends out of the Fu Manchu menu.

Another high on the list would be the Mai Chai – Ron Zacapa 23 rum, with Kraken Black Spiced, Orange Curacao, lime and Chai Tea syrup – beginning with the smooth Ron Zacapa and hints of orange, building into the spicier flavours of Kraken, finally coming to rest on the cloves, cinnamon and cardamom of the chai syrup. Sweet/sour, smooth, a kind of simplicity some of the drinks on the menu could learn from.

The Dragon Fruit Paloma

The Dragon Fruit Paloma, an amped up take of the Mexican classic, Sauza Hacienda tequila, Cocchi Americano vermouth, lime juice are mixed in with muddled Dragon Fruit provide a laid back, bright and refreshing. Sauza is either a strange, or very intentional choice of tequila – a very mild, almost characterless tequila on its own (got a few fruit notes, with a white pepper finish), it vanishes in this cocktail. Perhaps making it sneakier?

The cocktail is primarily lime and Dragon Fruit, the vermouth makes and appearance with and orange undertone, and ending on a quinine bite.

L-R: Lady Jasmin, Blood of Fu Manchu, Chai Tea-Ni

The Lady Jasmin twists the classic White Lady by using Jasmine syrup with the Bombay Sapphire gin, Cointreau, lemon juice, eggwhite and Angostura bitters. Pale, frothy and textured, garnished with a purple orchid, the drink is similarly demure, and gentle. Sweet, but almost imperceptibly so with the laid-back nature of jasmine. If you’re cautious around powerful drinks, this would be right up your street, though it left the Hoodooist neither here nor there. The Lady Jasmin does what it sets out to do, and serves you exactly what it told you it would.

Slightly less reserved than the Lady Jasmin, her feistier sister, the Yuzu-Tsu, brings Japanese yuzu tea paste to Cariel Vanilla vodka, Cointreau, lemon juice, egg white and Angostura bitters. Fragrant in two separate ways, the nose is powerfully vanilla, but the taste brings the yuzu’s fragrance out strongly. Tart, yet still somewhat in line with the Lady Jasmin’s gentleness. The same look and texture as the Lady, but garnished with a dried slice of citrus. One should probably use an aromatised yuzu spray to lessen the powerful vanilla nose a bit, but if one doesn’t mind it, it shouldn’t pose any issue.

The Kwang Su Boulevardier

The Kwang Su Boulevardier, now that sounds right up the Hoodooist’s street: Nikka From the Barrel Japanese whisky, with Antica Formula vermouth, Campari, and Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s Aphrodite Bitters. Loving the first three, the Hoodooist has somewhat of a love/hate relationship with the Aphrodite bitters, which bring powerful cocoa, Arabica coffee, ginseng, ginger and chilli to the fore. In this cocktail though, there are hints of cocoa and a very distant (if you’re looking for it) spice from the bitters.

Otherwise, it begins on a light note – from the Nikka – then moving onto the Campari taking centre stage, and then settling on the warm winter flavours of the Antica Formula’s spices and bitter orange.

Now, it depends on the bartender you have – a colleague received a bland, tasteless drink, whereas the Hoodooist’s turned out surprisingly layered – so I’d imagine you want bartender Wayne to make this for you! A decent aperitif.

The two, very different, Kwang Su Boulevardiers.

Finally, because there must be one, avoid the Green Tea-ni. Do not be enamoured by its promises of earthy Matcha. Because what you will get is painfully sour and confused appletini of sorts, with Bombay Sapphire gin, apple, an overwhelming amount of lime juice, and sugar syrup. One sip from the table was all that was stomached before being set aside.

The dim sum is slightly modernised and moves away from ‘traditional’ dim sum in some ways. Whether one reads this as a step forward or back is up to the reader.

One to recommend would be the Tai Chi Bo Coy Gow scallop and spinach green dumpling. Similarly, the otherwise simple Lor Pak Gou turnip cake is turned up to eleven with Chinese sausage and prawn.

One that you must absolutely order is the Monkfish and lime phoenix-eye dumpling, this Fung Yan Gow starts off with the powerful flavours of the monkfish, and slowly build up to a lime crescendo – loved this. One of the less traditional offerings would be the Chi Si Hoi Sin Kou cheese-stuffed cuttlefish and prawn balls – which, though a more Italian, works spectacularly.

The lobster, prawn and bamboo shoots Lung Har Gau, though, one shouldn’t spend their hard-earned £9.50 for.

Do not forget the great selection of teas! The flowering Lily and Jasmine work a treat.

Must haves: Monkfish Fung Yan Gow

The more quiet times of day, 5-8 PM means quick and attentive dinner service, however once the crowd pours in for the club nights, ordering a drink can be bit of a task – but servers do their best to help, but might need a slightly thicker skin to move through the crowd.

As one can expect from a club night, drinks are made quickly, and the wait can be long, so as seen with the Kwang Su Boulevardier above, unpredictability is a factor to be taken into account.

Custard dumplings!

London needs more venues that can provide a clubbing experience with cocktails – and a longer food menu certainly doesn’t hurt. One hopes Fu Manchu is a precedent to further venues of the sort to grow in the city, if only to satisfy each friend on a night out.

Drinks: ***
Atmosphere: Casual racism and misogyny, fun for the whole family!
Service: ****

Fu Manchu

15-16 Lendal Terrace,
London SW4 7UX.

http://fumanchu.co.uk/

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Monthly Archives: June 2015