Seymour’s Parlour @ The Zetter Townhouse, Marylebone

Type of Bar: Hotel, Lounge, Victorian
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Date, Small Groups

After 69 Colebrook Row, Bar Termini, and the Zetter Townhouse Clerkenwell – Tony Conigliaro is back! Working with the newly opened Zetter Townhouse Marylebone, Seymour’s Parlour is instantly recognisable as its Clerkenwell relative with a more late Georgian twist.

Swathed in reds and greens, it’s a smaller space, but a comfortable one, overlooked by a portrait of the hotel’s fictional host, the Wicked Uncle Seymour. Inspired by the tales of the travelling louche, the cocktails are indulgent, and tend to a few more fizzy drinks than the Clerkenwell cousin, also perhaps knowing its market in Marylebone.

Drinking in this beautiful space is almost like spending an evening at the John Soane’s Museum, and is a room that would not look amiss at the eccentric collector’s home. So reclining on a couch beside the fireplace, we have a quick look at the menu, and a few do stand out.

Seymour's Parlour Zetter Townhouse Marylebone London Cocktail

The Turf Club

The Hoodooist begins with the Turf Club – Old Tom Gin, Dubonnet, Grape Reduction, Peruvian Bitters, and grass. The grass is not in the cocktail itself: inspired by the racetracks, the stem of the glass is entwined with grass and a reduced grass oil coats it – leaving the fragrance on the fingertips of the drinker. It’s not in the drink itself.

The cocktail is incredible. A modern take on the popular vintage tipple adds a sweet grape reduction, and Peruvian bitters that enhance the quinine flavours of the Dubonnet while also adding a bit of spice and kick. The short drink is deep, strong, and enveloping – there’s something almost soporific about it.

The Old Tom’s initial hit is quickly followed but the grape reduction, finally settling on the quinine and sweeter layers of the Dubonnet, and ending on a dry note, though well-rounded. Addictive, a favourite.

The Madeira Sour, & a shot of Flashed Madeira

The Madeira Sour is one for the citrus fans: Cognac, Flashed Madeira, Lemon and Walnut. An easy drink, this one. The flashed Rainwater Madeira – or the sweet Madeira that is concentrated with heat – retains its dryness, and balances the drink wonderfully. A woody cognac base goes fantastically with the citrus flavours, and long length of walnut finish is an elegant conclusion to a very confident drink.

Seymour's Parlour Zetter Townhouse Marylebone London Cocktails

The Last Laugh

The Last Laugh anticipates the Autumn coming soon: Cognac, Cider Apple Brandy, Apple Caramel and Apple Wood Bitters. This was wave after wave of varying takes on apple flavours. Appearing in quick succession, the bright brandy is quickly followed by the caramels, finally ending with the young citrus cognac notes with undercurrents of warm woodiness. Sounds like easy drinking, but takes deceptively longer with its intense flavour.

Finally, there’s the Two-Pennie Trash – Rye Whiskey, Powdered Malts, Treacle. This was an odd one – couldn’t quite place exactly what it was that I was tasting. On first sip it’s almost effervescent – it does, however, taste primarily of malt and yeast. One for the marmite crowd, I’d imagine – an acquired taste.

The Two-Pennie Trash

A good 4 hours whiled away in the comforting candlelit space, with the blues in the background, and marvellous drinks in hand – manager Claudio and Steve are delightful hosts, and in its first weekend service is speedy and attentive. The Hoodooist is already plotting to return to taste the Rake and Le Sphinx.

Another fantastic venue from the Zetter Group and Tony Conigliaro – should come as no surprise from these legends.

Drinks: **** – *****
Atmosphere: *****
Service: *****

The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone

30 Seymour Street
London W1H 7JB

http://www.thezettertownhouse.com/marylebone

Drink Shop & Do, King’s Cross St. Pancras

Aug14

Type of Bar: Creative, Party, 90s, Quirky
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Afternoon Tea, Activities, Small Groups

Celebrating it’s 5th birthday, young entrepreneurs Kristie Bishop and Coralie Sleap have turned fun into a business venture – providing customers with everything from a quirky store to afternoon tea with cocktails and Lego and nipple-tassel craft classes, to a 90s themed basement club accompanied by classes to learn Beyonce dance moves (which let’s not pretend you haven’t practised at home already).

The site of the ex-Turkish-bathhouse, with its massive skylight and overhead discoball, houses two large bars (one above, one below) – serving up primarily spritzes and punches, has a primarily sweet menu. There is the occasional Negroni, though, so don’t panic yet!

The 5th Birthday party begins with a series of easy-serve drinks and bites – whilst building Lego robots, the Sun-blushed tomato, tapenade and sweet herb sandwich is competed with only by the Smoked salmon, cream cheese and chrain – and the dessert even better. Hazelnut chocolate brownie dense and flavourful.

The drinks were a hit or miss: the Duppy Rum Punch serves up Duppy Share Rum, fresh lime juice and gomme (which may have not been entirely necessary with the sweetness of the rum). It really relies on the inherent richness of the blended rum, and it’s powerful pineapple, mango and papaya flavours are tempered by the lemon.

The Happy was a bit of a stumble though, Evan Williams Bourbon meets elderflower and apple to make a confused intense hit of sour to the back of the jaw, followed by sticky, painful sweetness.

The Birthday was a major improvement: Belvedere Vodka, lychee, lemongrass, ginger, chilli and soda. A mix of savoury chilli kick followed by a length of sweet lychee.

Downstairs, the Wild Spritz: Elderflower, Perry and gin was thick, and tasted more like a glassful of sugar syrup.

Though the myriad of events and the food do outweigh the skill regarding cocktails, I can see myself returning for an afternoon tea with a friend, but not quite for the drinks. The lengthy list of sweet drinks is almost patronising, and could do with either increased variety, or with catching up with 2015, the apple, elderflower and lychee combos are rather old hat and very SW postcode Chelsea (which, let’s face it, is the last to join the party at anything).

There are some fantastic spirits behind the bar I’d love to see used more often – like a great collection of mezcals that are not on the cocktail menu. Take the Birthday, for example: Replace the lychee with hibiscus, and the vodka with mezcal, for a more modern and mature cocktail.

The staff are wonderful – upbeat, polite and conversational, and most of all – fun. And the obvious passion they display for their work is palpable, and is contagious. From the events upstairs to the parties below, they keep the crowd alive and excited for their work.

Drink Shop & Do is a beautiful space, run by brilliant creatives, and a wonderful place to learn new skills, or just let loose. To another 5 years of DSD!

Drinks: * (I recommend coming for the tea and food, though!)
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

Drink, Shop & Do

9 Caledonian Rd, King’s Cross,
London N1 9DX.

http://www.drinkshopdo.com/

The Tea Den @ Opium, Chinatown

Aug7

Type of Bar: Pop Up, Bar/Restaurant, Chinese, Speakeasy, Lounge
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Tea, Food, Date, Small Groups

Okay. Seriously. Forget what else is happening on Afternoon Tea Week 2015 (10^th-16^th August) – your butts should be at Opium Chinatown.

We’ve reviewed Opium Chinatown before (Click HERE for Review!), but this week they will be working alongside The London Tea Club, and lifestyle brand, Oblique.

The London Tea Club, spread across Europe and North America, supply members with teas every month matching their flavour profile – perfect for the tea buff – have supplied Opium with a share of some of their most popular teas to construct a spectacular tea-infused cocktail list for Afternoon Tea Week (though the Hoodooist says that they should be permanent cocktails on the Opium menu).

Tucked away in the deep red corridors of Opium, beyond the Jade Door on Gerrard Street, find yourself present with 5 magical cocktails, named after the tea used in the concoction:

Opium Chinatown Afternoon Tea Week Den Dim Sum Cocktail

The Antique Rose

A major hit of the night (with one friend drinking three of them exclusively), the Antique Rose: Absolut Elyx vodka infused with Antique Rose tea, with Cocchi Americano Rosa and orange oil.

A beautiful, beautiful twist on the vodka Martini, the nose is alluring and primarily the Rosa’s berries and florals (lavender?), with hints of bitter chinchona. By palate, the sweeter tea with powerful rose notes adds life to the Elyx, the strong tea and rose eruption is followed by enveloping raspberry, strawberry and vanilla – ending on a castanet kick of quinine, cloves, a hint of ginger and orange zest.

Sophisticated, aromatic, seductive. A winner.

The Lapsang Souchong

If you want to go for something a little less Carmen, and a bit more Cosette, then the Lapsang Souchong might be for you: Buffalo Trace bourbon, apricot liqueur, tea-smoked cherries.

The normally deep, smokey tea is mellowed here, in a cocktail that appears to be more similar to a whiskey sour than you’d imagine. A very good one, nonetheless. Shy, fruit laden, the cocktail begins with the apricot, followed by the Buffalo Trace’s oaky, toffee, brown sugar flavours, leading toward the slightly more tart cherry and ending on a soft bed of lapsang souchong smoke.

A bit sweet, bit fruity, longer and easy to relish for the whiskey sour fan.

The White Peony

Now the White Peony, this one is always just out of reach, so well-composed, so independent, with footfalls of tiny bells: Double strength White Peony tea, Herradura Plata tequila, Belsazar White vermouth, house falernum.

The nose is strongly of the white peony, but underneath there is a lingering layer of agave. The first flavour belongs to the Herradura, soft, oaky, bright agave notes – but give away almost immediately to the tea, and below flowers the very restrained Belsazar and falernum with spicier, fruitier flavours. This cocktail, though loaded with various flavours, always feels so restrained and in control – it is delicate and patience is needed to fully appreciate it.

In short: It’s a bloody success.

The Goji Berry & Chrysanthemum

In contrast, the Goji Berry & Chrysanthemum is far louder: The teas infused in Absolut vodka and a splash of pink grapefruit juice makes a strongly juicy and brightly fruity cocktail. It might lack the White Peony’s complexity, but is a great middle-drink when wandering through the menu to lighten the spirits between the hardhitters. It might not be the Hoodooist’s style, but is an admirable cocktail, nonetheless, well crafted.

The pink grapefruit juice and vodka are the first to hit you, followed by the flowering flavours of Goji berry, and finishing on the floral chrysanthemum.

The Iron Goddess of Mercy

Finally, the Iron Goddess of Mercy. More commonly known as Tie Guan Yin (or even TGY), the dramatic name comes from various legends that have the same result: the Goddess of Mercy, Guan Yin, has provided a patient listener with a treasure in the form of an Oolong tea whose popularity spread across the country. Rich, and sweet, using it in a nectar-like syrup for a classic Rum Daiquiri was a fantastic choice.

Refreshing, bright, but not lacking in depth, this cocktail (in all its simplicity) is a breath of fresh air, and a fantastic finisher to the menu. Sweet, uplifting, with hints of herb and spice in the distance (as should be customary of a well-made Daiquiri). Wonderful.

Honestly, recently the Hoodooist has been looking for cocktails that would ‘wow’ him again, and the Tea Den did just that. Having a sip of the teas before their respective cocktails is a great idea to appreciate the brews themselves, as well as identify their place in the cocktails. I also love that the menu is set out in an excellent order, I’d recommend working your way in the same order, as the cocktails flow and contrast wonderfully that way. Manager Bruce Govia has done a remarkable job with working with the London Tea Club here, and service is light, conversational, speedy and approachable.

I guess what I’m saying is: You cannot miss this.

Drinks: *****

The Tea Den @ Opium, Chinatown

15-16 Gerrard St,
London W1D 6JA

http://www.opiumchinatown.com/

Upstairs @The Ten Bells, Shoreditch

Aug3

Type of Bar: Pub
Damage: £
Ideal for: Shorties, Date, Small Groups

Reopened, the Upstairs at the enormously popular Ten Bells in Spitalfields has been revamped to a sort of Prohibition meets Renaissance-Cathedral chic. Amid winged armchairs and chandeliers, a Tracy Emin neon sign, religious paraphernalia and under the watchful eyes of the subverted Gabrielle d’Estrées et un de ses soeur, or in this case, Gabriel d’Estrées et une de ses frères – imbibers are treated to a British take on New York’s current cocktail trend: the Shorties.

Reminiscent of Tony Conigliaro’s Negronis at the Bar Termini (Click HERE for Review!), Shorties attempt to maximise flavour and intensity, while minimising volume – essentially, it’s more than a shot, but less than a full-blown cocktail, something that you drink quickly before moving on to the next order of business.

The Hoodooist, for whom cocktails always – always – mean lying back and throwing two fingers up to the universe and its machinations in all their metaphysical yet infinitely irritating glory – this posed a challenge. After all, one might argue that their cheaper prices (6 to 7 pounds) is relative to their volume, but if you’re going to spend the evening here, you might end up spending more dosh than usual. It’s a complicated game, the gambling sort might enjoy this.

That’s the fun bit. The only part of this menu that one found slightly annoying was the fact that the cocktails lacked names. “I’ll have the one with the tequila – no, not the tequila and peach – the tequila and brachetto, yeah, the one from the ‘Fresh’ section, not ‘Crushed’,” I imagine to be needlessly complicated. Numbering them would be fine.

The cocktails are divided into separate categories from ‘Fresh’, to ‘Strong’, and ‘Late’.

From the ‘Strong’ group, the stand out drink would definitely be the superior Black Bottle Scotch, Apricot Liqueur, Cinnamon, Black Cardamom, Jaggery and on the side, a Camden Pale Ale. This instantly reminded me of the IPA Paanch at Dishoom, King’s Cross (Click HERE for Review!). The Black Bottle blended malt is slightly smokey, silky with elements of chocolate, ginger, honey and oak – the golden sweetness of the finish teased out further by the jaggery, the apricot and spices add a wonderful extra kick to a twist on an Old Fashioned. The side of ale is meant to be a way to lengthen the drink by sipping it between draws, a kind of cleanser.

It isn’t necessary, but they pair rather well, the brightness of the ale helping lift the heavy flavours, making each sip of the cocktail feel like the first.

The other three cocktails on the ‘Strong’ list struggle.

There is a distinct originality to the Rum, Fresh Pandan, Ginger, Palm Sugar, Mandarin Bitters, but it is definitely a distinctly acquired or unique taste. The sweet rum kicks you in the face as quickly as the pandan and palm sugar – lending to the cocktail a thick, green, rice-liquor flavour. Somewhat piney, and rather musty. This is a cocktail that can only be served as a shorty – because even for those who took to it (like the Hoodooist), there is only so much of it you can drink. The other three on the table failed to appreciate this.

The Gin, Creme de Peche, Jasmine, Peychauds Bitters, Grapefruit Twist, lacked character, and came off a bit too sour, too floral. Similarly, the Crushed Botija Olives, Noilly Prat Rouge, Gin or Vodka, was less of a Shorty twist on a Dirty Martini, but was filthy with a drop of Martini. What graced the table was olive brine and vinegar. Mixing the three cocktails together made them more palatable.

Making a strong cocktail that short might be problematic.

However, the ‘Fresh’ category held more promise.

The Bee Pollen Gin, Blossom Honey, Cocchi Americano, Lemon, Soda – this is what summer needs. The bright gin and the sweet, floral honey is balanced well by the dark, savoury bee pollen and the spiced quinine noted of the Cocchi Americano – lengthened by the lemon and soda. It’s one surprise after another when you go from savoury to sweet, to spicy to bitter to citrus and fizz. A fun little thing.

The Birbet Brachetto, Tequila, Maraschino, Burlesque Bitters, Lemon Twist and Soda, is a deep, sweet, and lightly floral cocktail that goes from the Brachetto grape’s intense spumante-esque sweetness to the floral sweetness of the Burlesque Bitters (like hibiscus?), to the Maraschino, finally ending with the tequila – bit sweet for the Hoodooist, but I can see that there is a market for this one. Expect sweet, a bit much, though.

The Red Date Shrub, Pommeu de Normandie, Vodka, Prosecco, Berries, was a hit or miss depending on the Prosecco used. Apparently a change in Prosecco halfway through the evening took a semi-sweet, berried, bright cocktail and turned it into gran’s basement. It’s up to you if it’s worth the risk.

Now, the beautiful ‘Late’ Shorties – they won the evening.

Tequila, Amaro, Condensed Horchata, Cold Brew Coffee: The Tequila and Amaro are mixed into the coffee, then the Horchata (a Latin and Spanish drink, this one maybe more similar to the Mexican variation: rice, condensed milk, vanilla, cinnamon? Something the Hoodooist had been craving for the past week) was frozen and dropped in like an ice cube.

Being impatient, the Hoodooist chipped away at his to melt, resulting in a milky caffeine-fueled digestif. Intensely bittersweet, the tequila lifts the Amaro’s bitterness out of the depth of the coffee/horchata combo.

The incredible nostalgia suddenly took the Hoodooist back to sneaking Kopiko Coffee Candy out in the middle of the evening as a 6 year old – anyone who tasted these Thai candies that randomly appeared in the house in the Middle East would recognise the flavour.

Finally, the Birch Wood Aged Vieux Carre – Rye, Cognac, Benedictine, Vermouth, Bitters, all aged in Birch – result in one of the most beautiful takes on a Vieux Carre. Incredible depth, lingering, powerful eau de vie finishes, the bitterness balanced with the woody sweetness of the birch wood and the vermouth. Wonderful.

Co-founder Bradley Lomas is a delight, as well as his carpaccio, and head-bartender Jerome Slesinski knocks out the Shorties with polite conversation and confidence. Server Andrea is wonderful to work with, and a spectacular host to chat about Sardegnian cheeses with. Their passion for their new venue and take on cocktails is admirable, and so is their risk-taking.

When a Shorty goes right, it goes very right. It’s a difficult one to gauge, when the results of reliable/good : risk/all over the place are 5:4. Did we have fun? Majorly. A great space to experiment with little shorts if you’re in the mood for it. A beautiful space to boot, with wonderful service.

Drinks: ***
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

The Ten Bells

84 Commercial Street, Spitalfields,
London E1 6LY.

http://tenbells.com/

Cocktails in the City 2015 – Summer Edition, London

Jul30

For the second year in a row, Cocktails in the City came in for the weekend and swept the Hoodooist’s life into a tizzy. CitC’s Summer Edition brought 25 bars representing several spirit brands together under the sunny skies at Bedford Square Gardens where 2,000 Londoners came down over 2 days to try a whopping 7,724 cocktails!

Bars and a representing brand set up stalls where bartenders presented the brand in a cocktail of their devising to the public for judging, with scores gathered at the end of the weekend.

Here, we’re gonna look at the cocktails that impressed the Hoodooist most, as well as the best present stalls and experiences.

There was some serious competition this year for cocktails, and it was difficult to narrow it down, but the winners are certainly not a surprise, they’re fantastic bars as they are:

The Rev JW Simpson’s ‘Reverse Vesper’

The Reverend JW Simpson (Click HERE for Review!) presented 4 seperate cocktails, but their star was the Reverse Vesper : Lillet Blanc Vermouth, Belvedere Vodka, a touch of grapefruit and gin at a ratio of 6:2:1 of vodka:gin:vermouth.

With the smooth crispness of the vodka, expect a heavily juniper cocktail, smooth enough for the vermouth’s flavours to come through. At a guess, it may have been City of London Distillery Gin (More on COLD Here), with the sweet tang of grapefruit.

With an outdoor set up of their basement bar, the Rev brought out a comfy seating space under the sun, with a beautiful crystal stand, and a ‘Be a Martini’ multisensory experience that left you a bit stirred. With the wonderful Jim Wrigley and Joaquin Smith behind the bar, you can only expect the perfect Martini.

Fu Manchu Bar’s ‘The Deception of Fu Manchu’

Only a couple of months into their career and the Fu Manchu (Click HERE for Review) is already readying their new Winter menu – and CitC got a preview! Presenting The Deception of Fu Manchu : Rye whiskey, Campari, homemade Raspberry and Vanilla shrub, lemon, grenadine, topped with Tsingtao beer foam. Not sure what to expect, the cocktail sounded like it would be a bit all over the place, but surprised with it’s lively flavours.

The rye whiskey and Campari is exactly what the drink needed to balance the sweetness of the raspberry and vanilla shrub, and the beer foam has a powerful presence and effect of the palate of the cocktail (which, do not worry, tastes nothing like beer). The nose actually adds a refreshing tanginess to the experience, offsetting the raspberry and grenadine which manage the Campari, the rye whiskey maintaining a presence throughout the cocktail, ending neatly on the vanilla. If this is what their next menu will be like, I’m looking forward to it.

The stand itself may have been more suited to an indoor or nighttime event, with it’s deep reds and greens and golds. The host of ingredients were presented to the public alongside Tsingtao for those who’d rather have a beer, and customised fortune cookies containing a host of Fu Manchu vouchers, from a free cocktail to 20% off your bill! With their delightful barteam, this stall was another hit in the Hoodooist’s book.

Shrub and Shutter’s ‘Honey I Shrunk the Kids’

Brixton’s experimental Shrub and Shutter took the Whitley Neill Gin brand from last year’s PKD Bar (thankfully, nobody is ever in the mood for the PKD’s surprisingly racist menu and decor shenanigans) and presented the the Honey I Shrunk the Kids : Whitley Neill Gin, Zuidam Honey Whiskey, honey syrup, lemon, lavender bitters.

The Bedford Square Gardens were perfect for this drink. Lavender and lime break in first, strengthened by the scent from the lavender garnish, and soon settle in with the honey that pairs so wonderfully with the warmer botanicals of the Whitley Neill. Tart to sweet, with hints of floral.

Coq d’Argent’s ‘Far East’

The Far East by Coq d’Argent was probably the most snapped cocktail of the day: U’luvka Vodka with kaffir lime leaves and chilli, sochu with green tea, lemon, agave nectar, decorated with coloured spices and an edible flower. This cocktail deserves all the recognition it got.

First, under the floral canopies of the beautiful stand, the drink seemed perfectly designed for the ‘Summer Edition’ of CitC. The cocktail strutted in with a rosey tartness of the kaffir lime leaves in the crystal crisp U’luvka, with background heavy weight of the sochu, lightened by the green tea’s herbaceousness (and something else…coriander?), ending on a sweet note, with a lingering heat of the chilli infusion (more of a Tabasco heat) and dance of warm spice from the garnish.

If this isn’t on their menu, it ought to be.

Demon, Wise and Partner’s ‘Extra Aged Demon’

Recently opened City basement bar Demon, Wise and Partners swaggered in with their Extra Aged Demon : Evan Williams Extra Aged Whiskey, Chocolate Absinthe Liqueur, Demon, Wise and Partners Bitters. This cocktail just screams DWP, it is so reminiscent of their bar style, with focus on continental flavours less expressed here, bitter aniseed fascinations. Paired with cocoa dusted chocolate truffles, this bourbon muscles in with leather and brown sugar, accentuated by the chocolate, the absinthe liqueur kicking it down to size with some spice from the bitters. More of an indoor cocktail, but one we could relax with on the grass away from the crowd.

The Cocktail Trading Company’s ‘Blend It Like Peckham’

The Cocktail Trading Company (Click HERE for Review!), brought in the Blend It Like Peckham : Chambord, lemon sherbet, egg white, soda, milk. Served out of a slushie machine, the bright pink cocktail with it’s slurpy texture, obviously, had to be served in a shampoo bottle. Because why the hell not. The Major outdid themselves with a surprising drink, well balanced (even if you don’t have a sweet tooth) between the Chambord and lemon sherbet, and who knew how well soda and dairy work once put through a slushie machine?

Loves Company knows how to put a show

Meanwhile, Loves Company (Click HERE for Review!), governed by the excellent Harry Gerakis, brought the beach to London; complete with sand, deckchairs, limbo competitions, ice creams and espresso martinis – now that’s one hell of a stand.

It wasn’t just about the cocktails as each bar created its own particular experience, with an honorable mention going to Barrio Bars – runner up to Loves Company, who put on a silent disco as well as inviting guests to get crafty and decorate tiles that will soon adorn the walls of their new opening in Brixton.

And that’s a wrap! After such a successful Summer Edition, the question is, what will Cocktails in the City be creating for their next exciting installment? God knows I can’t wait till the next CitC.

http://www.cocktailsinthecity.co.uk

Leicester House, Chinatown

Jul24

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, Vietnamese
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Food, Date, Small Groups

I’ve gotten used to this corner of Soho metamorphosing into different hotels each time I visit. Though the last time was a while back when the Talented Mr. Fox resided on the upper floor (Mr. Fox, who is now focusing his energy in the Bethnal Green destination, Peg + Patriot: Click HERE for Review!)

Leicester House has turned the eerie abattoir chic of its previous incarnations to much more welcoming hues that strongly echo the designers’ work at the Firmdale Hotel group with cerulean and flame orange. Screaming European contemporary, the design is not what you’d expect from a restaurant that identifies itself as ‘French-Vietnamese’. In fact, the meal reflects the continental décor more than its South East Asian heritage – but we’ll get to that in a moment. After all, we are a cocktail blog first and foremost:

Seated on a banquette, the Hoodooist could hardly nurse a Sangiovese – handed by the charming and experienced Michael who runs the show with incredible finesse and efficiency – much longer when they word TALISKER screamed out at him from the menu.

Leicester House Chinatown Soho Vietnamese Cocktails

The Smoking Negroni

Beginning with a Smoking Negroni: Talisker 10 yr Whisky mixed in with Campari, sweet vermouth, garnished with an orange twist. The nose is distinctly that of the Skye whisky, thick smoke and brine. The first sip instantly hits you with the same flavours, as well as white pepper peatiness, and pronounced heather as the flavours begin to move to the citrus sweetness of the vermouth and the Campari bitterness. The finish has a lingering malt from the whisky.

The first glass was beautiful – however, a friend on the table with the same cocktail received a drink distinctly imbalanced in comparison to the one above, a lot more heavy on the Campari, and skimping on the vermouth, a more medicinal cocktail was produced.

Done well, the Smoking Negroni is wonderful, though one needs to be very precise.

The Kaffir Gimlet

The Kaffir Gimlet brings together Sipsmith Gin, lime, and Kaffir lime leaves. The nose is beautifully floral, with the playful citrus of the Kaffir leaves. Flavours of strong juniper, marmalade, sweet citrus and even (somehow) rose comes through, with a dry, zesty finish. A drink that manages to be simultaneously rather sweet and dry, and perfect for summer afternoons. Simple and refreshing.

The French ‘Pisco’ Sour is a tragic name for a perfectly good drink. Yes, Armagnac and Pisco are similar in many ways: though the grapes are different, both are distilled from wines to produce intense and ludicrously strong brandies – the name French ‘Pisco’ Sour is a worrying attempt to make it familiar, I suppose.

Armagnac Blanche, lime, sugar and egg white. The wheatiness of the Armagnac still soaks through with its earthy terroir flavours, softened by the lime and sugar – a good aperitif in any case.

The Perfect Calva

Finally, the Perfect Calva mixes Calvados, Sweet and Dry Vermouth, garnished with Grillotines cherries. I think it’s the choice in vermouths here that plays an important part – the finished drink is harsh, confused, and could probably benefit from using Cognac as a base. Though the bar menu at Leicester House focuses on simplicity, this cocktail verges on amateurish.

One realises that being a bar is not what Leicester House was going for, the main focus would be the French-Vietnamese cuisine – which would be interesting considering how impacted Vietnamese food was by the French when colonised. Though the dishes were distinctly Vietnamese, they were also distinctly European in that the Vietnamese flavours of citrus and pungent spice were heavily toned down to the point of becoming an Anglicised palate of ‘Vietnamese’ cuisine (why is there Italian ham here?). Many spices seem to have given way to the use of salt and pepper. A tendency to overcook slightly (particularly scallop) is evident.

That is not to say there were no must-order dishes – a simple and satiating starter of green papaya and daikon salad, along with blackened squid and samphire are excellent options. The cod XO sauce may be cooked to perfection, but lacks punch.

What stood out the most as a hit across the table would easily be the rich dark chocolate pot layered with hazelnut coffee cream. Star.

The Leicester House certainly does not aim at focusing on its bar, although could benefit dramatically with more experienced talent behind it. The tendency to simplicity can be a double edged sword, on one hand easy to knock out and reliable – on the other possibly lacking lustre. But hopefully consistency in the cocktails can improve with practice, since the Smoking Negroni is entirely too good when prepared right.

Also hope to see more of a Vietnamese edge in cocktails, the use of more Eastern flavours and possible the host of Rượu rice liquors that Vietnam has to offer.

Drinks: **-***
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

Leicester House

1 Leicester Street,
London WC2H 7BL

http://www.leicesterhouse.com/

FREE GIVEAWAY: Yelp’s Big Night In!

Jul21

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It’s a party at your place, and you’re the only one invited!

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After the immensely successful VIP Ticket Giveaway on Highball Hoodoo to the excellent Yelp’s Mad Scientist Soirée (Review HERE) and the previous year’s Elite Summer Garden Party (Review HERE) – Yelp is back with something a little different!

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READY FOR ANOTHER CONTEST?!

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It’s time to treat yo’self (and you can do it with your trousers off.) Yes, on Friday, July 31st, we will be running the first ever YELP’S BIG NIGHT IN! Who wouldn’t want to be fed, pampered and taken care of, for free, all from your own home, in the comfort of your PJs!

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THE NIGHT WILL INCLUDE:

Free food delivered by Deliveroo!

Free wine delivered by Mr. Vine!

Free laundry picked up and delivered right to your door from Laundrapp!

Your home beautifully cleaned by Hassle, for free!

Anything you want, picked up and delivered by Quiqup!

A service of your choice from Bizzby! We’d suggest free therapeutic massages, but if you need an errand run or want a personal trainer session before cracking into all that food, they can make that happen too!

SWEET! SO SWEET!

Want in?

– Make sure you have an active Yelp profile (meaning photos or reviews added) in case we have an overabundance of RSVPs!

– Check to make sure you’re free on Friday, 31st July, since the credit must be used on that date.

– RSVP on THIS EVENT PAGE now! (Winners will be notified on Friday 24 July.)

– Only those with a real photo and name on their Yelp Profile will get a spot.

– Again, if the event goes over capacity, those who are recently active on Yelp (meaning adding great REVIEWS, PICTURES or LISTS) will be given priority, so make sure you keep your Yelp Profile up to date with all the places you’ve been to lately!

That’s it!

We’ll be choosing 30 winners next week to all participate on the same night. There’s never been a night in like this before and you know you would love to win a spot!

And remember… treat yo’self!

The Sun Tavern, Bethnal Green

Jul20

Type of Bar: Pub (?), Whisky, Poitin
Damage: £
Ideal for: Sundays, Lounge, Small Groups, Date

Reopening last year, regulars were glad to see that the Sun Tavern retained its pub atmosphere, blurring the line between pub and cocktail bar. The biggest perk of the venue is its morning opening, serving pastries and coffee, and pub grub throughout the day (alongside its Neal’s Yard sourced charcuterie).

And this is all alongside its selection of craft beers and Irish Poitin (a pretty large collection considering it only being legalised about 3 years ago).
Small, with bare brick, a sizable bar, and a fantastic playlist from Zeppelin, to Ram Jam, to the Talking Heads – the Sun Tavern is your local boozer with quiet confidence in its skill and product. And confident they should be – the cocktails are incredible.

Sun Tavern Bar Bethnal Green London Cocktail

The One For The Road, sausage roll not included ;P

Beginning with a sausage and stilton roll, the Hoodooist orders a One For the Road: Irish Whiskey, Peated Irish Whiskey, English Spiced Vermouth, Amaro Montenegro. Such a beautiful cocktail – the initial hit is of the Amaro’s rosewater, quickly retreating into the whiskey, with a quick buildup of peat, smoking its way in. Once that smoky wave subsides, spices come forth from the Amaro and vermouth (which I’m going to guess is by Sacred Distilleries, with its hints of liquorice and cinnamon). The cocktail, though peaty, is very light, and works well in the daytime.

The Red Lombriz

The Red Lombriz wanders into sweeter territory: Mezcal, Raspberries, Agave Syrup, Lemon, Chocolate Bitters. Pink and dusted with chocolate shavings, it’s certainly a looker – citrus and sweet dominate the drink, with agave syrup’s unique flavour working surprisingly well with raspberries. The chocolate bitters do a great job at rounding out the drink.

The Fleur de Lis

Back to whiskey, the Fleur de Lis brings Irish Double Whiskey, Cognac, Cynar, Lime, and Pecan Syrup together to make a slightly thick, and laid back kicker of drink. I find this one difficult to describe. It somehow manages a distinct citrus to it even while bringing the whiskey’s butterscotch sweetness – suspect the whiskey might be a Glendalough? The cognac grants a depth and warmth to it, probably enhanced by the pecan. The Cynar being a Hoodooist favourite helps provide balance to the sweetness.

The Wake

Finally, The Wake: 3yr Guyanese rum, Suze, Overproof Poitin, Lemon – Of course, the overproof Poitin bit is fascinating, as it can run well into the 90% ABV. The nose is loud, sour, and almost like sand after rain – not soil, not earth, sand. The 3 yr rum, which I’m gonna hazard a guess at El Dorado 3yr, provides a coconut and hay flavour, and dry – harmonises well with the Suze’s bitter gentian. That drop of Poitin is what, I suspect, adds to the dry, grassy, white rum flavours. Long, dry, citrus, bitter – the cherry at the end is a major contrast, and seems to soak up the Poitin like a shot because wow it’s a kick in the teeth.

It was difficult to keep up with the One for the Road (or even the Fleur de Lis), but the short cocktail list manages to be incredibly original, hard-hitting, exquisitely prepared and a bargain. Service is exceptionally swift, whether at bar or table.

The Sun Tavern’s easily the Hoodooist’s favourite new spot in Bethnal Green.

Drinks: ****-*****
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ****

The Sun Tavern

441 Bethnal Green Road
London E2 0AN

http://www.thesuntavern.co.uk/

The Summer of Twin Peaks!

Jul17

Press play. You know you want to.

Cosy? Comfy? Got a cup of damn fine coffee on ya?
Fantastic. So.

DO YOU KNOW IT’S THE SUMMER OF TWIN PEAKS

25 years, and Twin Peaks has come rushing back into public consciousness with the announcement of Season 3, coming 2017. And if you’re looking for that Twin Peaks fix, here are some of London’s premier Peaks events to keep you going till then!

THE OWLS ARE NOT WHAT THEY SEEM

Where Punchdrunk’s The Drowned Man was a Lynch-inspired fantasy of epic proportions, this summer’s The Owls Are Not What They Seem go all out as a Lynch and Twin Peaks immersive dining experience at an undisclosed location.

From 27^th August to 17^th October, pop up artists Lemonade and Laughing Gas team up with culinary masters Blanch & Shock to prepare an immersive theatre Lynch environment with a three course meal – all with a twist on a damn fine cup of coffee and cherry pie.

Immersive dining always calls for cherry pie.

Sets, installations, and even a late night drinking den complete with bespoke cocktails and secret missions mean that even if you can’t make it to dinner, you can enjoy the themed bar. And remember to come looking your Lynchian best! Best costumes win an award each evening!

The Owls Are Not What They Seem will be running from 27th August to 17th October 2015.
Tickets for The Owls Are Not What They Seem go on sale midday on 17^th July.
Tickets are £65, and entry to the bar is £5.

Home

THE DOUBLE R CLUB

But maybe the end of August is just too far away, and you need your hit ASAP.

In which case, if you haven’t heard of it already, either being shouted about by the drunk in the corner or whispered about only in hushed tones when in polite company – London’s own Lynchian institution – The Double R Club.

One of the Hoodooist’s favourite cabarets and nights out in London hands down. The multi-award-winning Double R Club is too peculiar a creature to describe. “Inspired either directly or indirectly by the dark and terrifying world of David Lynch,” announces ‘f*ckin’ suave’ host, Benjamin Louche, the monkey to the organ grinder that is co-producer and retired burlesque performer, Miss Rose Thorne.

A space where mundane and horrifying collide, The Double R Club is a liminal animal, and the Hoodooist uses terms like animal and creature quite intentionally. The space itself is a character in this twisted, lurid nightmare – Angelo Badalamenti’s ‘Pink Room’ echoes across the red drapes and through the thick cover of smoke that slinks between tables – so thick the lights on stage fade and flicker.

Louche’s shameless humour and passionate poetry intersperse cabaret acts too daring for many venues, earning the Club vivid one-word descriptions varying from ‘demented’ to ‘sick’. Yet the compere’s paso dobles and maddened grin draw you back to a foggy form of lucidity from the grotesque dreamworld that each act drags you into – willing, or un. If there was a dictionary of everyday nightmares we choose to repress, The Double R Club will whisper it directly into your cochlea. Not unlike a parasitic centipede, really. It just wants a bed for night. Your heart can’t be that cold.

Whether it’s your cup of tea or not, missing The Double R Club is a big mistake. Whether you end up being the crowd stunned to silence, or the regulars cackling maniacally through the fog, huddled around flickering red candles, is up to you. The regulars have mostly just learnt to give in to the madness in this red, red room.

When the lights come back on and Louche’s voice fades, asking you if you were really there, you will have your answer.

The Double R Club will be hosting a show at the London Wonderground on August 1^st, and then returning to its home at the Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club for its 6^th Birthday show on September 17^th.

*you know where the Hoodooist will be on 17^th September then*

Tickets for The Double R Club at the London Wonderground August 1^st 2015 are at £17

Tickets for The Double R Club at the Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club September 17^th 2015 are at £10 (includes a coffee & cherry shot, and donut!)

http://www.thedoublerclub.co.uk/

THE TWIN PEAKS FESTIVAL

Working closely with the Double R Club, in fact, is the legendary Twin Peaks Festival!

This October, with two riotous days that would leave any Twin Peaks fan chomping at the bit, the Twin Peaks Festival is back to Whitechapel’s Genesis Cinema – bringing with it stars from the show including Lee, Ashbrook, and Amick (YES. YES, INDEED.), among others.

Visitors can expect signing with the actors, and a wrap up party with them including a bespoke Agent Cooper Cocktail, and obviously cherry pie and donuts. Don’t forget David Lynch’s very own line of coffee beans!

Between screenings, performances and Mulholland Drive Jitterbug dance class, you also get to explore Glastonberry Grove, and witness performers at the Double R Club return to the train car with BOB and Laura Palmer – because what’s a good weekend without a spot of murder?

“She’s my cousin…but doesn’t she look…almost exactly like Laura Palmer?” ~ Miss Miranda at the TPFestival.

The Twin Peaks Festival will be running on the 3rd & 4th of October 2015.
A Day Ticket can be purchased at £100
A Weekend Ticket can be bought at £180

http://www.twinpeaksukfestival.com/

This summer is the certainly the summer of Twin Peaks, and there always seems to be sweet music in the air.

Discount Suit Company, Aldgate

Jul13

Type of Bar: Basement, Speakeasy, Tiny
Damage: £
Ideal for: Small Groups, Party

The street’s covered with clothing stores, and a discount suit store is hardly unique in these parts – except for one: The Discount Suit Company, housed in an ex-suit store basement, houses some of the more imaginative cocktails in the are.

Run by the Umbrella Project (also responsible for the Sun Tavern, Bethnal Green – Review up Friday 17th July ’15!), the DSC is a very intimate basement space, candlelit – though surprisingly loud – so I’d recommend booking a table in advance if you’d rather have a conversation down at the couch.

Like both bars by the Umbrella Project, the DSC keeps a a beautiful bar-back and short cocktail menu (off menu classics can be prepared), and for the summer, expect light cocktails focusing on sweet and slightly spiced flavours. The Hoodooist is walked through the menu by the fantastic Connor behind the bar:

Discount Suit Company London cocktails Aldgate

Koffie?

Koffie? Wow, I’d love one of these every morning. Genever, Ristretto liqueur, Fernet Branca, cold brew coffee, orgeat, egg yolk. Surprisingly light (you’d expect something heavier with the yolk, but the creaminess is not as thick as you’d think). The bitter Fernet Branca is barely perceptible, just to help balance the sweetness of the ristretto liqueur and orgeat. The almond in the orgeat works well with the bright floral notes of the Genever. Very short, but a beautiful drink.

Connor preparing the Pollo Loco

The bright green Pollo Loco is exactly what this summer asked for, Tequila Blanco, St. Germain, Absinthe, lemon, cucumber, honey water. Senses assaulted by waves of honey water and cucumber, the vegetal green of the cucumber tempered by the St. Germain – finally the tequila’s pepper and agave lingering underneath. All the while being a light summer cocktail.

The Grapes and the Grain

The Grapes and the Grain: Gin, Pisco, Velvet Falernum, grape juice, lime, honey water. Tropical without being tropical, this cocktail has pronounced flavours of the ginger, cloves and sweetness in Velvet Falernum, with the sweet honey water and a fruitiness that can only be ascribed to the grape juice. From underneath these the Pisco emerges, a light singe and more fruit.

Another light summer drink, but lacks the same intensity of the Pollo Loco, and begins to lose character quickly – but a good way to end to a night of drinks with something cleansing and relaxed.

The Dane-ted Love

Next up, Bartender Connor’s favourite, the Dane-ted Love. Now we’re back in business: Akvavit, Amaro Montenegro, lemon juice, lemongrass syrup. The otherwise powerful rose notes of the Amaro Montenegro are surprisingly calm in this cocktail – instead the spice and fruit notes of the Amaro are lengthened by the lemon juice and akvavit, and the citrus drink is sweetened lightly by the lemongrass.

On the topic of sweetness, The Royal Rhubarb goes all the way: Rhubarb vodka, cherry aperitif, vanilla syrup, rhubarb bitters, topped up with Prosecco. No surprise that it’s rhubarby – the cherry and the drier notes of the aperitif (gonna guess it’s Bold London Spirit?), its clove and cassia, and the dry Prosecco, help round out the flavour of the cocktail by adding a little bit of oomph.

The Royal Rhubarb

The Captain Cobbler, really, is the one drink the Hoodooist wouldn’t order again – Dark rum, Amontillado sherry, kumquat, ginger and honey marmalade, pink grapefruit and IPA head. I’m sure there is an audience who’d enjoy this, but it came off as a confused, sweet muddle.

The Captain Cobbler

The Discount Suit Co.’s cocktail game is strong, as usual – fantastic in fact, for a short menu – and recognise that simplicity is key. Of course, a short menu can be limiting, so whisky cocktails are gonna be classics ordered off menu – which shouldn’t be a problem with this fantastic team – fun, conversational, swift, gotta love the guys behind the bar.

The House of Ban-Boo

The Discount Suit Co. is another testament to the Umbrella Project’s skill at good bar concepts: aiming for simplicity, while understanding the customers and serving up quality at fabulous wallet-preserving costs (particularly handy close to the university as it is). Love this joint.

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Service: *****

Discount Suit Company

29A Wentworth Street,
London E1 7TB

http://www.discountsuitcompany.co.uk/