Disaronno Riserva Launch at Fortnum & Mason, Green Park

Sep28

You think ‘amaretto’, you think Disaronno – a popular digestif, Disaronno and its widespread cocktail expression as the Disaronno Sour is known across the globe.

However, the purveyors of this Italian almond liqueur are broadening their market into the world of whisky! Working with several distilleries across the Highlands and Speyside, Disaronno has unveiled the Disaronno Riserva: a new luxury limited edition liqueur, which combines the signature notes of Disaronno with a bespoke blend of Scottish malt whisky – aged in Marsala barrels from the Cantine Florio in Marsala, Sicily (for more on what to feast on in Marsala, click HERE!)

Nearly 500 years after the first bottle of Disaronno Amaretto was gifted by a local innkeeper to a student of Da Vinci’s in Saronno, Italy; CEO of Illva Saronno Augusto Reina travelled up to distilleries in the Scottish Highlands to hand pick a select mix of malts to prepare a light, sweet blend to merge with the intense almond and marzipan flavours of the well-loved amaretto.

Beginning with sweet touch of spice softened by light hints of vanilla-almond, with stone fruit overtones and a finish that is peppery, recalling dried fruit with a touch of Madeira – the Disaronno Riserva is one of the first sweeter whisky expressions the Hoodooist has taken to this year.

The Hoodooist prefers it served neat, instead of on the rocks – the slight warmth brings out the peach notes in the Riserva, perfect for a cold night digestivo.

Packaged in a sleek wooden case, the Riserva comes in a bottle reminiscent of the Amaretto, but glossed with a minimalist, smooth design. With only 10,000 bottles released a year, the Disaronno Riserva is limited to luxury retailers: as of this week, it is available at the Fortnum and Mason department store in West London at an RRP of £250.

Augusto Reina comments, “I am honoured to present Disaronno Riserva It’s a product that is deeply rooted in the company’s ethos; research and innovation have always been the guiding principles in managing the family business, and it is these exact values that have made this new product truly unique. To make the product distinctive I decided to focus on how, and where it was created; being aged in the oak barrels Cantine Florio, brings it all back to the long standing history of the company. It has all come full circle.”

Fortnum & Mason

181 Piccadilly

London W1A 1ER

https://www.fortnumandmason.com/

The Hoodooist’s Guide to: Sicily

Sep18

The island at the Southern tip of Sicily has been a centre of controversy for centuries. Repeatedly taken over by several cultures, from the natives, to Sikels, Greeks, Phoenicians, Moors, Arabs, Levantines, finally becoming part of Roman Empire – to the modern day war between the law and the mafia, Sicily is constantly roiling and in movement.

It doesn’t seem so when looked down at from its many mountain ranges, its vineyards sloping up the volcanic black soil of Etna: their primordial stillness is ignorant of the wars of men below.

But this clashing of cultures has given Sicily its rich architectural and culinary culture, and makes the island the Hoodooist’s favourite spot in Italy to visit over the years; earthy, fiery, and full of life.

Choosing which cities to write about of the dozen or so cities on the island he’s visited is not easy, so he’s gone for the ones with the more striking offerings. (I’m sorry, the rest, you’re beautiful, but did not make the list.)

Let’s start East, in ‘Greek Sicily’, in the much ignored village of;

Castelmola

From tourist trap Taormina, grab a shuttle up the steep hill to the village of Castelmola. Tiny lanes made of steps and ladders wind labyrinthine up here in the clouds – and smoking Mt. Etna dominates the massive landscape. Seats and tables hang over edges of rocky outcrops and hills, teetering over the vertigo-inducing heights.

While here, after spending the afternoon wandering the streets, make your way to the infamous Bar Turrisi – notorious for its choice in décor. Legend has it the original owner, after years of a childless household, finally sired several sons, and thus dedicated the bar to Priapus, images of frolicking satyrs and enormous wooden phalli.

This sudden virility was attributed to their celebrated elisir d’amore: the Vino alla Mandorla. This sweet almond wine is an absolute must to buy when in the area, and is *highly* addictive. Now its aphrodisiac properties are up for debate, but if the myths about the Greco-Roman wine god are right, “what love is there without wine?”

A 75 cl bottle can be purchased at 25 Euros, with a choice of the regular, and the – um – themed bottle.

http://www.turrisibar.it/

It is a long but worthwhile trip from Eastern Greek Sicily to Western Arab Sicily, but worth it. Notice how the landscape, the architecture, the plants and flowers all seem to change on the way – desert and Middle Eastern flowers seem to burst into bloom on the West and Northern coasts, and welcome you to the wine city of;

Marsala

Now we’re talking! Marsala is a beautiful little orange-hued town, and as the name suggests, wine is its lifeblood, and the canapes served while tasting will risk you filling yourself up before dinner!

After visiting the Roman Lilybaeum with it’s mosaics, baths, snail covered fields and snakes, cross the street from the main entrance to stop by the Assud for lunch, serving up Sicilian classics like octopus with tomato, basil and garlic, as well as Sicilian takes on your classic hamburger made with Madonie beef with a glass of Grillo.

On the way out, grab some of their organic chocolates, designed for various need from ‘Energy’ to ‘Lust’, and continue on Via XI Maggio to the city centre.

http://www.assud.eu/

En route to the city centre with its Praetorial Palace and massive cathedrals, pop by one of the town’s many enotecas. Enoteca Lo Sbarco, like the others in town, will take you through various Marsala wines, while explaining the production process, and serving various canapes paired with each glass.

The owner loves her some Martinez Marsala wines, particularly the traditional dry 20 year old Marsala Vergine Riserva that sells for 27 Euros, and the sweeter Marsala Superiore Riserva Dolce that the UK is more acquainted with for about 14 Euros.

Why not grab yourself some Sicilian delicacies here before leaving? No tourist can resist the incredible Crema di Pistacchio (“It is Pistachio Nutella!” She announces, and she isn’t kidding. You will eat whole jars at once), or the almond Crema di Mandorla.
And don’t forget the local Marsala speciality: Gelo di Marsala Superiore Dolce DOP, a marmalade made using sweet Marsala wine!

http://www.enotecalosbarco.it/

After an afternoon aperitivo of Ciccio wine spritzer at the beautiful deli Ciacco Putia Gourmet outside the Chiesa del Purgatorio and its chuckling fountain (http://www.ciaccoputia.it/), make your way down Via Abele Damiani to the Panificio Ragona. This little family-run panificio is a hit with the local grans, who flock to buy their Marsala-renowned arancine, probably the best in town! Selling about a dozen different arancine, which choices from prosciutto, to eggplant, to 4 cheese and pistachio, you’re spoiled for choice!

Grab yourself a batch, and maybe like us, stumble into the town hall square, where four enormous fig trees form a canopy over a fountain of the wine god raising the grapes that keep the city alive above his head.

https://www.facebook.com/panificioragona.francesco

Before you leave! After watching the sun set over the Western coast, take a walk down Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, casually called wine avenue, with all the enotecas sprawling onto the street. Pop by La Sirena Ubriaca, and sit at the bar, for a wine tasting with the wonderful Sonya and Silvia. Seated at the bar, you wouldn’t have to order a plate of nameless canapes, instead you will be served each crostino that is paired with the wines, from orange and tuna, to garlic and almond pastes, to bottarga topped with sun dried tomatoes and pistachio pesto.

Over the next few hours, this ended up becoming dinner as Sonya allowed us free rein over the bread and toppings. Wines and unlimited bites came to 30 Euros each (22 quid? Pretty decent deal for four wines and enough food to make dinner. Canapes are a food group now).

http://www.lasirenaubriaca.it/

A sad goodbye to Marsala the next morning takes us to a city of which Sonya said, “If you can drive there, you can drive anywhere”;

Palermo

Palermo is bonkers. Colourful, wonderful, and bonkers. Palermo is literally the Habanera from Bizet’s Carmen.

Type As beware, since plans rarely go as expected in Palermo. Notably, Palermo observes siesta far more religiously than the other cities the Hoodooist had visited on the island.

Siesta can vary from 1PM to 4PM, or from noon to 7PM. When a restaurant says they are open from 8PM to midnight, what they mean is they’re open at the time if they feel like opening. Churches will lock their doors on the reverent. Always have a plan B and nurture your flexibility. Stop lights really don’t mean a thing, as cars will just keep driving, so just step out on to the road to stop them. Be confident about it, and you won’t get hit.

Public transport can be a bit dodgy – cabs can only be hailed at taxi ranks which are found at popular sites (be sure to decide on the price before entering, and make sure you ask for change before paying), and even locals will warn you about safety on the buses. Oh, and don’t take the rickshaws or horse carriages (Londoners already know this, though).

Really, being assertive is the only way you can make it around Palermo.

If you’re in the area of the Teatro Massimo or the Politeama, make sure to pop by the little panificio I Cuochini. Now, the venue might not look like much, but grab some tamballini di pasta, paticcino and arancine – deep-fried comfort food, basically. I Cuochini hasn’t been open for nearly 200 years for nothing!

http://icuochini.com/

Devour your deep fried goodness en route to the La Preferita espresso bar for a coffee and dessert http://lapraferitabar.jimdo.com/ – or to Il Gusto di Dionisio for wine https://www.facebook.com/Il-gusto-di-dionisio-366993793387319/timeline/

Walk through Vucciria Market and find yourself in the centre of the city at the Quatro Canti, surrounded by its churches, palazzos and glorious Fontana Pretoria, the one major site in Palermo that harks to its Greco-Roman past.

If you’re an architecture buff, see if you can contain the overwhelming number of cathedrals here are you wander the tiny lanes that spread like ivy over, under and into each other, occasionally bursting into markets and church squares.

Grab lunch at the Locanda Del Gusto, taste their inventive use of vegetable ash and charcoal, or spleen over focaccia, as well as more traditional eggplant parmigiana, paired with Etna wine. Complete your meal with an orange biscotti along with bitter orange Amara digestivo.

Service is wonderful, and server Franco is delightful, and will walk you through the menu and do his best to ensure a great lunch. Worth popping by.

http://www.quintocantohotel.com/index.php/en/officina-del-gusto-restaurant-palermo-centre.html

Before reaching the Palermo Cathedral, make sure to pop by the Caffeteria del Corso on the (mostly) pedestrianised Via Vittorio Emmanuele for the café’s popular granita con panna. From mixed fruit, to watermelon, to almond and coffee – there are several flavours to choose and mix, and top with sweet ricotta.

Turning South, wander through the noisy Ballaro Market with its huge catches of swordfish and squid, and eventually find yourself out West in front of the Byzantine sector of Palermo.

The Arabian influence on the architecture of the San Giovanni degli Eremiti is unmistakable, and wander through the beautiful, maze-like gardens – bursting with cacti, hibiscus, palm trees that canopy over the crumbling stone archways and pillars. Do take the hard hat provided if you climb the bell tower (you will need it), and though it is short, it demands far more energy than you’d expect (this is coming from a compulsive bell-tower climber). Primarily because of the difficult descent, where your head with repeatedly hit the step above you. Not for anyone with weak knees. However the view from the top is to die for.

Do resist ringing the bell.

Do not run like idiots through the back like the Hoodooist to escape angry priests.

North is the ludicrously beautiful Palatine Chapel and Norman Pallazzo to strike you dumb with its beauty, and immediately north of that, a must visit: the Pasticceria Cappello on Via Colonna Rotta. You are making a big mistake if you miss this. Besides the exquisite service, the Crema di Pistacchio cake, the chocolate mousse with cereal base, and those cannolis are to DIE for. Grab an espresso as well, and enjoy the sugar.

https://www.facebook.com/pasticceriacappello

When the sun sets, go down to the Western Kalsa, by the port and botanical gardens, to see Christopher at the Bump Cocktail Bar on Via Cagliari – expect a smashing Dry Manhattan with Rye, or a Lagavulin Old Fashioned with a smoking sprig of rosemary, or ask him to knock something up with Cynar to get a fantastic Sicilian twist on a Julep. Having travelled Europe for cocktail tours, chat with him about fellow London bartenders from Luca of the Nightjar or Palermo-hailing Conigliaro of London’s 69 Colebrooke Row, Bar Termini, Seymour’s Parlour, or Zetter Townhouse Lounge.

Christopher is a wonderfully skilled bartender who would not be amiss in a cocktail bar in London, and I wish him and Bump the best!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bump/452444438181253

Move onto the Palermo equivalent of Soho at Via Chiavettieri, where several bars spill out onto the pavements serving small antipasti with Negronis (for 5 Euros), wines and beers, with the occasional live music, a fun spot to hang out and get smashed before a late dinner (dinners in Sicily are wonderfully late compared to London).

At midnight, stumble into Carizzi d’Amuri for a fig and ham antipasti, and a gorgonzola, mushroom and truffle smothered steak cooked to perfection – a restaurant I would envy to have in London. Service is excellent, and since by now its 2AM, do ask the bar to call you a cab back to the hotel.

http://www.carizzidamuri.it/index.php?lang=it

Or perhaps pop down to Kursaal Kalhesa, a coast-side bar/restaurant/club/art-space that would fit directly in Shoreditch, for a sea-urchin tagliatelle and Martini. A cavernous venue built into follies and caves by the seaside, opening up to the night sky.

http://www.kursaalkalhesa.com/

The by ways and villages that sprawl across the salt pans, orchards and mountain ranges of Sicily still have more to offer, and the Hoodooist is hellbent on devouring it all. If you dream of the centre of the old world, you may have found it.

Just make sure you’ve got your tropical strength insect repellent on you.

Seriously, we’re not kidding about that.

Â saluti!

The Bayou Banquet @ The Vaults, Waterloo

Sep17

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, American, Pop Up
Damage: £
Ideal for: Food, Brunch, Live Music, Hangover, Small Groups

Purveyors of all things Louisiana – from soul food to jumpin’ live music – Slap Ya Papa! (‘because he never cooked you food so good!’) is bringing their red-lit New Orleans inspired world to the Victorian railway arches at The Vaults this September with a two week festival of events to launch The Vaults Kitchen, a brand new restaurant space at London Waterloo’s subterranean hub of arts and culture.

With the Mississippi melting pot as its muse, The Bayou Banquet will give guests a taste of the heady, vibrant and culturally unique world of New Orleans. Featuring a spectrum of experiences, from immersive supper clubs, live music and Crescent City cocktail fuelled parties, to interactive art exhibitions and auctions, all-day Sunday brunches and even a hint of celebrity, with a run of cabaret audiences with Nola native and Mad Men star Bryan Batt.

Throughout the residency, the first in a rolling series of pop-up restaurant concepts at The Vaults Kitchen, Slap Ya Papa will team up with kindred culture collectives artists Marbles and Ware, and live bands Riot Jazz and Kansas Smitty to offer a programme of festivities to run throughout the day and late into the night, showcasing the best of a bubbling new wave of the most soulful Deep South food, art and live blues, jazz, funk and soul music in London.

The Hoodooist’s experience at the Egg, Bacon, Grits…SAUSAGE Brunch served up aforementioned dish with a wonderful smattering of green onions and spices with cornbread and sweet potato muffins with the most wonderful honey butter.

Better than that, though, was the magic Laura was concocting behind the bar – as blues played in the painting-adorned hall with its communal dining tables. After the first sitting, diners are led to the bar area to take on the rest of the cocktail menu.

L-R: The Deepsouth Widemouth, & the Bloody Derby

The Bloody Derby brings Four Roses Bourbon with “a secret mix” blending Tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper, Amontillado sherry, Picklehouse pickle juice and tomato juice. The Amontillado is what makes this for that bite of dryness that goes so well with the the Picklehouse and cayenne. A fantastic Bloody Mary twist.

The Deepsouth Widemouth has vanilla-infused Four Roses Bourbon, fresh chilli, ginger shrub, Amaro and Campari reduction for a smooth aperitif. It’s got a real kick, this one, long, dry, with a hint of sweetness from the vanilla and ginger shrub. If you’re afraid of Campari, don’t be, the reduction grants it only a hint of the flavour. Enjoyed this drink, though takes a while with its strength and dryness.

Finally, the Missy Sippy: Vodka, Kamm & Sons, lemon, mint, and sweet potato syrup. Now here’s one for the sweet tooth – the ginseng of Kamm & Sons lends to a musky sweetness, as does the syrup, luckily the lemon lifts the drink up a bit (considering its thickness). Personally, it does well as a liquid dessert.
Service is swift, and the smaller space makes it easier to grab attention of the staff – at the bar, expect conversation and quick service from Laura dishing out those Bloody Derbys!

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ****

Event info and ticket link below!

Bayou Banquet London Waterloo Brunch

Events at The Bayou Banquet to look forward to:

Wednesday 16th, Thursday 17th & Thursday 24th September – Slap Ya Papa Supper Clubs (£30)

Friday 18th September – Slap Ya Papa X Riot Jazz (£35)

Saturday 19th September & Saturday 26th September – Marbles & Ware Bizarre Bazaar (free entry)

Saturday 19th September & Saturday 26th September – Marbles & Ware Bidders’ 5 course Banquet (£40)

Sunday 20th September & Sunday 27th September – Slap Ya Papa presents: Egg, Bacon, Grits…SAUSAGE Brunch (£20)

Monday 21st – Wed 23rd September – The Bryan Batt Cabaret presents Tales from New Orleans (Mon/Tues – £25 [non-dining], Wed – £40 [includes four course dinner])

Friday 25th September – Slap Ya Papa X Kansas Smitty (£35)

As they say in Nola – Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler!

Tickets can be bought at: http://www.the-vaults.org/#!slap-ya-papa/cfpu

Tequila Fest 2015 Preview @ Barrio East

Aug28

Though the wide-spread drinking of tequila and the recent emergence of Mezcalerias like Agaveria El Nivel, one of the Hoodooist’s favourite openings 0f 2014, are known well enough, a connoisseurial culture of the spirit never completely blossomed in the Isles. “This is a no salt or lime zone”, stresses Festival organiser Eduardo Gomez, as we grab our tasting cups.

After last year’s major success, TequilaFest 2015 is not an event to be missed

Hosted at Barrio East, Shoreditch (keep an eye out for their next Brixton opening, Barrio South), the press preview brought forward a spectacular crowd to taste a large variety of tequilas & mezcals. A few fantastic discoveries in the world of agave for the Hoodooist, such as Meteoro‘s pure Espadin mezcal – it even comes with a backstory – a crater from a crashed meteor in Oaxaca became the cooking spot for this mezcal’s agave. Delightfully smooth, the Meteoro Joven is a fantastic sipping tequila. Bold, muscling in with powerful smokiness and a bright trail left behind, it lives up to it’s media campaign, #ItFellFromTheSky.

Another of the TequilaFest newcomers to expect will be agave giant Patron with their Silver, Reposado, Anejo and XO Cafe range – and in a few days will be unleashing their Incendio chilli-chocolate tequila onto #Drinkstagram tags everywhere.

Herencia de Plata has entered the ring as well, with their bright, peppery range, and can carry it’s weight in combat with the other stars of the show.

Expect to see old reliables like Ocho, who have unveiled their Curado – a Blanco tequila that has been infused with agave – carrying their Blanco’s feel and kick, with a fruity wave of agave, addictive this one.

Stars of last year are back, from the smoky caramel Espadin San Cosme mezcal, to classic Altos and Siete Misterios Espadin, with that spicy, earthy smokiness and sugary dried fruit (so, so beautiful). And you certainly can’t go wrong with a Del Maguey Tommy’s Margarita.

After the food provided by Barrio East was demolished by the now slightly staggering clientele of the room, the Hoodooist realises that this year’s TequilaFest at Old Spitalfield Market is going to enormous in comparison to the previous year – this is an event he – and you – should certainly not miss.

“The Tequila Fest will educate you in the customs of production and consumption and engulf you in the taste, smells, sounds and sights of true Mexico. There are few spirits with a more rich and fascinating lineage. Get to grips with the technical jargon, the process of distillation and the bounty of care that goes into every single bottle.” Also featuring blind tastings, cocktail tutorials and masterclasses, “Real tequila.”

http://www.tequilafest.co.uk/

Seymour’s Parlour @ The Zetter Townhouse, Marylebone

Aug17

Type of Bar: Hotel, Lounge, Victorian
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Date, Small Groups

After 69 Colebrook Row, Bar Termini, and the Zetter Townhouse Clerkenwell – Tony Conigliaro is back! Working with the newly opened Zetter Townhouse Marylebone, Seymour’s Parlour is instantly recognisable as its Clerkenwell relative with a more late Georgian twist.

Swathed in reds and greens, it’s a smaller space, but a comfortable one, overlooked by a portrait of the hotel’s fictional host, the Wicked Uncle Seymour. Inspired by the tales of the travelling louche, the cocktails are indulgent, and tend to a few more fizzy drinks than the Clerkenwell cousin, also perhaps knowing its market in Marylebone.

Drinking in this beautiful space is almost like spending an evening at the John Soane’s Museum, and is a room that would not look amiss at the eccentric collector’s home. So reclining on a couch beside the fireplace, we have a quick look at the menu, and a few do stand out.

Seymour's Parlour Zetter Townhouse Marylebone London Cocktail

The Turf Club

The Hoodooist begins with the Turf Club – Old Tom Gin, Dubonnet, Grape Reduction, Peruvian Bitters, and grass. The grass is not in the cocktail itself: inspired by the racetracks, the stem of the glass is entwined with grass and a reduced grass oil coats it – leaving the fragrance on the fingertips of the drinker. It’s not in the drink itself.

The cocktail is incredible. A modern take on the popular vintage tipple adds a sweet grape reduction, and Peruvian bitters that enhance the quinine flavours of the Dubonnet while also adding a bit of spice and kick. The short drink is deep, strong, and enveloping – there’s something almost soporific about it.

The Old Tom’s initial hit is quickly followed but the grape reduction, finally settling on the quinine and sweeter layers of the Dubonnet, and ending on a dry note, though well-rounded. Addictive, a favourite.

The Madeira Sour, & a shot of Flashed Madeira

The Madeira Sour is one for the citrus fans: Cognac, Flashed Madeira, Lemon and Walnut. An easy drink, this one. The flashed Rainwater Madeira – or the sweet Madeira that is concentrated with heat – retains its dryness, and balances the drink wonderfully. A woody cognac base goes fantastically with the citrus flavours, and long length of walnut finish is an elegant conclusion to a very confident drink.

Seymour's Parlour Zetter Townhouse Marylebone London Cocktails

The Last Laugh

The Last Laugh anticipates the Autumn coming soon: Cognac, Cider Apple Brandy, Apple Caramel and Apple Wood Bitters. This was wave after wave of varying takes on apple flavours. Appearing in quick succession, the bright brandy is quickly followed by the caramels, finally ending with the young citrus cognac notes with undercurrents of warm woodiness. Sounds like easy drinking, but takes deceptively longer with its intense flavour.

Finally, there’s the Two-Pennie Trash – Rye Whiskey, Powdered Malts, Treacle. This was an odd one – couldn’t quite place exactly what it was that I was tasting. On first sip it’s almost effervescent – it does, however, taste primarily of malt and yeast. One for the marmite crowd, I’d imagine – an acquired taste.

The Two-Pennie Trash

A good 4 hours whiled away in the comforting candlelit space, with the blues in the background, and marvellous drinks in hand – manager Claudio and Steve are delightful hosts, and in its first weekend service is speedy and attentive. The Hoodooist is already plotting to return to taste the Rake and Le Sphinx.

Another fantastic venue from the Zetter Group and Tony Conigliaro – should come as no surprise from these legends.

Drinks: **** – *****
Atmosphere: *****
Service: *****

The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone

30 Seymour Street
London W1H 7JB

http://www.thezettertownhouse.com/marylebone

Drink Shop & Do, King’s Cross St. Pancras

Aug14

Type of Bar: Creative, Party, 90s, Quirky
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Afternoon Tea, Activities, Small Groups

Celebrating it’s 5th birthday, young entrepreneurs Kristie Bishop and Coralie Sleap have turned fun into a business venture – providing customers with everything from a quirky store to afternoon tea with cocktails and Lego and nipple-tassel craft classes, to a 90s themed basement club accompanied by classes to learn Beyonce dance moves (which let’s not pretend you haven’t practised at home already).

The site of the ex-Turkish-bathhouse, with its massive skylight and overhead discoball, houses two large bars (one above, one below) – serving up primarily spritzes and punches, has a primarily sweet menu. There is the occasional Negroni, though, so don’t panic yet!

The 5th Birthday party begins with a series of easy-serve drinks and bites – whilst building Lego robots, the Sun-blushed tomato, tapenade and sweet herb sandwich is competed with only by the Smoked salmon, cream cheese and chrain – and the dessert even better. Hazelnut chocolate brownie dense and flavourful.

The drinks were a hit or miss: the Duppy Rum Punch serves up Duppy Share Rum, fresh lime juice and gomme (which may have not been entirely necessary with the sweetness of the rum). It really relies on the inherent richness of the blended rum, and it’s powerful pineapple, mango and papaya flavours are tempered by the lemon.

The Happy was a bit of a stumble though, Evan Williams Bourbon meets elderflower and apple to make a confused intense hit of sour to the back of the jaw, followed by sticky, painful sweetness.

The Birthday was a major improvement: Belvedere Vodka, lychee, lemongrass, ginger, chilli and soda. A mix of savoury chilli kick followed by a length of sweet lychee.

Downstairs, the Wild Spritz: Elderflower, Perry and gin was thick, and tasted more like a glassful of sugar syrup.

Though the myriad of events and the food do outweigh the skill regarding cocktails, I can see myself returning for an afternoon tea with a friend, but not quite for the drinks. The lengthy list of sweet drinks is almost patronising, and could do with either increased variety, or with catching up with 2015, the apple, elderflower and lychee combos are rather old hat and very SW postcode Chelsea (which, let’s face it, is the last to join the party at anything).

There are some fantastic spirits behind the bar I’d love to see used more often – like a great collection of mezcals that are not on the cocktail menu. Take the Birthday, for example: Replace the lychee with hibiscus, and the vodka with mezcal, for a more modern and mature cocktail.

The staff are wonderful – upbeat, polite and conversational, and most of all – fun. And the obvious passion they display for their work is palpable, and is contagious. From the events upstairs to the parties below, they keep the crowd alive and excited for their work.

Drink Shop & Do is a beautiful space, run by brilliant creatives, and a wonderful place to learn new skills, or just let loose. To another 5 years of DSD!

Drinks: * (I recommend coming for the tea and food, though!)
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

Drink, Shop & Do

9 Caledonian Rd, King’s Cross,
London N1 9DX.

http://www.drinkshopdo.com/

The Tea Den @ Opium, Chinatown

Aug7

Type of Bar: Pop Up, Bar/Restaurant, Chinese, Speakeasy, Lounge
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Tea, Food, Date, Small Groups

Okay. Seriously. Forget what else is happening on Afternoon Tea Week 2015 (10^th-16^th August) – your butts should be at Opium Chinatown.

We’ve reviewed Opium Chinatown before (Click HERE for Review!), but this week they will be working alongside The London Tea Club, and lifestyle brand, Oblique.

The London Tea Club, spread across Europe and North America, supply members with teas every month matching their flavour profile – perfect for the tea buff – have supplied Opium with a share of some of their most popular teas to construct a spectacular tea-infused cocktail list for Afternoon Tea Week (though the Hoodooist says that they should be permanent cocktails on the Opium menu).

Tucked away in the deep red corridors of Opium, beyond the Jade Door on Gerrard Street, find yourself present with 5 magical cocktails, named after the tea used in the concoction:

Opium Chinatown Afternoon Tea Week Den Dim Sum Cocktail

The Antique Rose

A major hit of the night (with one friend drinking three of them exclusively), the Antique Rose: Absolut Elyx vodka infused with Antique Rose tea, with Cocchi Americano Rosa and orange oil.

A beautiful, beautiful twist on the vodka Martini, the nose is alluring and primarily the Rosa’s berries and florals (lavender?), with hints of bitter chinchona. By palate, the sweeter tea with powerful rose notes adds life to the Elyx, the strong tea and rose eruption is followed by enveloping raspberry, strawberry and vanilla – ending on a castanet kick of quinine, cloves, a hint of ginger and orange zest.

Sophisticated, aromatic, seductive. A winner.

The Lapsang Souchong

If you want to go for something a little less Carmen, and a bit more Cosette, then the Lapsang Souchong might be for you: Buffalo Trace bourbon, apricot liqueur, tea-smoked cherries.

The normally deep, smokey tea is mellowed here, in a cocktail that appears to be more similar to a whiskey sour than you’d imagine. A very good one, nonetheless. Shy, fruit laden, the cocktail begins with the apricot, followed by the Buffalo Trace’s oaky, toffee, brown sugar flavours, leading toward the slightly more tart cherry and ending on a soft bed of lapsang souchong smoke.

A bit sweet, bit fruity, longer and easy to relish for the whiskey sour fan.

The White Peony

Now the White Peony, this one is always just out of reach, so well-composed, so independent, with footfalls of tiny bells: Double strength White Peony tea, Herradura Plata tequila, Belsazar White vermouth, house falernum.

The nose is strongly of the white peony, but underneath there is a lingering layer of agave. The first flavour belongs to the Herradura, soft, oaky, bright agave notes – but give away almost immediately to the tea, and below flowers the very restrained Belsazar and falernum with spicier, fruitier flavours. This cocktail, though loaded with various flavours, always feels so restrained and in control – it is delicate and patience is needed to fully appreciate it.

In short: It’s a bloody success.

The Goji Berry & Chrysanthemum

In contrast, the Goji Berry & Chrysanthemum is far louder: The teas infused in Absolut vodka and a splash of pink grapefruit juice makes a strongly juicy and brightly fruity cocktail. It might lack the White Peony’s complexity, but is a great middle-drink when wandering through the menu to lighten the spirits between the hardhitters. It might not be the Hoodooist’s style, but is an admirable cocktail, nonetheless, well crafted.

The pink grapefruit juice and vodka are the first to hit you, followed by the flowering flavours of Goji berry, and finishing on the floral chrysanthemum.

The Iron Goddess of Mercy

Finally, the Iron Goddess of Mercy. More commonly known as Tie Guan Yin (or even TGY), the dramatic name comes from various legends that have the same result: the Goddess of Mercy, Guan Yin, has provided a patient listener with a treasure in the form of an Oolong tea whose popularity spread across the country. Rich, and sweet, using it in a nectar-like syrup for a classic Rum Daiquiri was a fantastic choice.

Refreshing, bright, but not lacking in depth, this cocktail (in all its simplicity) is a breath of fresh air, and a fantastic finisher to the menu. Sweet, uplifting, with hints of herb and spice in the distance (as should be customary of a well-made Daiquiri). Wonderful.

Honestly, recently the Hoodooist has been looking for cocktails that would ‘wow’ him again, and the Tea Den did just that. Having a sip of the teas before their respective cocktails is a great idea to appreciate the brews themselves, as well as identify their place in the cocktails. I also love that the menu is set out in an excellent order, I’d recommend working your way in the same order, as the cocktails flow and contrast wonderfully that way. Manager Bruce Govia has done a remarkable job with working with the London Tea Club here, and service is light, conversational, speedy and approachable.

I guess what I’m saying is: You cannot miss this.

Drinks: *****

The Tea Den @ Opium, Chinatown

15-16 Gerrard St,
London W1D 6JA

http://www.opiumchinatown.com/

Upstairs @The Ten Bells, Shoreditch

Aug3

Type of Bar: Pub
Damage: £
Ideal for: Shorties, Date, Small Groups

Reopened, the Upstairs at the enormously popular Ten Bells in Spitalfields has been revamped to a sort of Prohibition meets Renaissance-Cathedral chic. Amid winged armchairs and chandeliers, a Tracy Emin neon sign, religious paraphernalia and under the watchful eyes of the subverted Gabrielle d’Estrées et un de ses soeur, or in this case, Gabriel d’Estrées et une de ses frères – imbibers are treated to a British take on New York’s current cocktail trend: the Shorties.

Reminiscent of Tony Conigliaro’s Negronis at the Bar Termini (Click HERE for Review!), Shorties attempt to maximise flavour and intensity, while minimising volume – essentially, it’s more than a shot, but less than a full-blown cocktail, something that you drink quickly before moving on to the next order of business.

The Hoodooist, for whom cocktails always – always – mean lying back and throwing two fingers up to the universe and its machinations in all their metaphysical yet infinitely irritating glory – this posed a challenge. After all, one might argue that their cheaper prices (6 to 7 pounds) is relative to their volume, but if you’re going to spend the evening here, you might end up spending more dosh than usual. It’s a complicated game, the gambling sort might enjoy this.

That’s the fun bit. The only part of this menu that one found slightly annoying was the fact that the cocktails lacked names. “I’ll have the one with the tequila – no, not the tequila and peach – the tequila and brachetto, yeah, the one from the ‘Fresh’ section, not ‘Crushed’,” I imagine to be needlessly complicated. Numbering them would be fine.

The cocktails are divided into separate categories from ‘Fresh’, to ‘Strong’, and ‘Late’.

From the ‘Strong’ group, the stand out drink would definitely be the superior Black Bottle Scotch, Apricot Liqueur, Cinnamon, Black Cardamom, Jaggery and on the side, a Camden Pale Ale. This instantly reminded me of the IPA Paanch at Dishoom, King’s Cross (Click HERE for Review!). The Black Bottle blended malt is slightly smokey, silky with elements of chocolate, ginger, honey and oak – the golden sweetness of the finish teased out further by the jaggery, the apricot and spices add a wonderful extra kick to a twist on an Old Fashioned. The side of ale is meant to be a way to lengthen the drink by sipping it between draws, a kind of cleanser.

It isn’t necessary, but they pair rather well, the brightness of the ale helping lift the heavy flavours, making each sip of the cocktail feel like the first.

The other three cocktails on the ‘Strong’ list struggle.

There is a distinct originality to the Rum, Fresh Pandan, Ginger, Palm Sugar, Mandarin Bitters, but it is definitely a distinctly acquired or unique taste. The sweet rum kicks you in the face as quickly as the pandan and palm sugar – lending to the cocktail a thick, green, rice-liquor flavour. Somewhat piney, and rather musty. This is a cocktail that can only be served as a shorty – because even for those who took to it (like the Hoodooist), there is only so much of it you can drink. The other three on the table failed to appreciate this.

The Gin, Creme de Peche, Jasmine, Peychauds Bitters, Grapefruit Twist, lacked character, and came off a bit too sour, too floral. Similarly, the Crushed Botija Olives, Noilly Prat Rouge, Gin or Vodka, was less of a Shorty twist on a Dirty Martini, but was filthy with a drop of Martini. What graced the table was olive brine and vinegar. Mixing the three cocktails together made them more palatable.

Making a strong cocktail that short might be problematic.

However, the ‘Fresh’ category held more promise.

The Bee Pollen Gin, Blossom Honey, Cocchi Americano, Lemon, Soda – this is what summer needs. The bright gin and the sweet, floral honey is balanced well by the dark, savoury bee pollen and the spiced quinine noted of the Cocchi Americano – lengthened by the lemon and soda. It’s one surprise after another when you go from savoury to sweet, to spicy to bitter to citrus and fizz. A fun little thing.

The Birbet Brachetto, Tequila, Maraschino, Burlesque Bitters, Lemon Twist and Soda, is a deep, sweet, and lightly floral cocktail that goes from the Brachetto grape’s intense spumante-esque sweetness to the floral sweetness of the Burlesque Bitters (like hibiscus?), to the Maraschino, finally ending with the tequila – bit sweet for the Hoodooist, but I can see that there is a market for this one. Expect sweet, a bit much, though.

The Red Date Shrub, Pommeu de Normandie, Vodka, Prosecco, Berries, was a hit or miss depending on the Prosecco used. Apparently a change in Prosecco halfway through the evening took a semi-sweet, berried, bright cocktail and turned it into gran’s basement. It’s up to you if it’s worth the risk.

Now, the beautiful ‘Late’ Shorties – they won the evening.

Tequila, Amaro, Condensed Horchata, Cold Brew Coffee: The Tequila and Amaro are mixed into the coffee, then the Horchata (a Latin and Spanish drink, this one maybe more similar to the Mexican variation: rice, condensed milk, vanilla, cinnamon? Something the Hoodooist had been craving for the past week) was frozen and dropped in like an ice cube.

Being impatient, the Hoodooist chipped away at his to melt, resulting in a milky caffeine-fueled digestif. Intensely bittersweet, the tequila lifts the Amaro’s bitterness out of the depth of the coffee/horchata combo.

The incredible nostalgia suddenly took the Hoodooist back to sneaking Kopiko Coffee Candy out in the middle of the evening as a 6 year old – anyone who tasted these Thai candies that randomly appeared in the house in the Middle East would recognise the flavour.

Finally, the Birch Wood Aged Vieux Carre – Rye, Cognac, Benedictine, Vermouth, Bitters, all aged in Birch – result in one of the most beautiful takes on a Vieux Carre. Incredible depth, lingering, powerful eau de vie finishes, the bitterness balanced with the woody sweetness of the birch wood and the vermouth. Wonderful.

Co-founder Bradley Lomas is a delight, as well as his carpaccio, and head-bartender Jerome Slesinski knocks out the Shorties with polite conversation and confidence. Server Andrea is wonderful to work with, and a spectacular host to chat about Sardegnian cheeses with. Their passion for their new venue and take on cocktails is admirable, and so is their risk-taking.

When a Shorty goes right, it goes very right. It’s a difficult one to gauge, when the results of reliable/good : risk/all over the place are 5:4. Did we have fun? Majorly. A great space to experiment with little shorts if you’re in the mood for it. A beautiful space to boot, with wonderful service.

Drinks: ***
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

The Ten Bells

84 Commercial Street, Spitalfields,
London E1 6LY.

http://tenbells.com/

Cocktails in the City 2015 – Summer Edition, London

Jul30

For the second year in a row, Cocktails in the City came in for the weekend and swept the Hoodooist’s life into a tizzy. CitC’s Summer Edition brought 25 bars representing several spirit brands together under the sunny skies at Bedford Square Gardens where 2,000 Londoners came down over 2 days to try a whopping 7,724 cocktails!

Bars and a representing brand set up stalls where bartenders presented the brand in a cocktail of their devising to the public for judging, with scores gathered at the end of the weekend.

Here, we’re gonna look at the cocktails that impressed the Hoodooist most, as well as the best present stalls and experiences.

There was some serious competition this year for cocktails, and it was difficult to narrow it down, but the winners are certainly not a surprise, they’re fantastic bars as they are:

The Rev JW Simpson’s ‘Reverse Vesper’

The Reverend JW Simpson (Click HERE for Review!) presented 4 seperate cocktails, but their star was the Reverse Vesper : Lillet Blanc Vermouth, Belvedere Vodka, a touch of grapefruit and gin at a ratio of 6:2:1 of vodka:gin:vermouth.

With the smooth crispness of the vodka, expect a heavily juniper cocktail, smooth enough for the vermouth’s flavours to come through. At a guess, it may have been City of London Distillery Gin (More on COLD Here), with the sweet tang of grapefruit.

With an outdoor set up of their basement bar, the Rev brought out a comfy seating space under the sun, with a beautiful crystal stand, and a ‘Be a Martini’ multisensory experience that left you a bit stirred. With the wonderful Jim Wrigley and Joaquin Smith behind the bar, you can only expect the perfect Martini.

Fu Manchu Bar’s ‘The Deception of Fu Manchu’

Only a couple of months into their career and the Fu Manchu (Click HERE for Review) is already readying their new Winter menu – and CitC got a preview! Presenting The Deception of Fu Manchu : Rye whiskey, Campari, homemade Raspberry and Vanilla shrub, lemon, grenadine, topped with Tsingtao beer foam. Not sure what to expect, the cocktail sounded like it would be a bit all over the place, but surprised with it’s lively flavours.

The rye whiskey and Campari is exactly what the drink needed to balance the sweetness of the raspberry and vanilla shrub, and the beer foam has a powerful presence and effect of the palate of the cocktail (which, do not worry, tastes nothing like beer). The nose actually adds a refreshing tanginess to the experience, offsetting the raspberry and grenadine which manage the Campari, the rye whiskey maintaining a presence throughout the cocktail, ending neatly on the vanilla. If this is what their next menu will be like, I’m looking forward to it.

The stand itself may have been more suited to an indoor or nighttime event, with it’s deep reds and greens and golds. The host of ingredients were presented to the public alongside Tsingtao for those who’d rather have a beer, and customised fortune cookies containing a host of Fu Manchu vouchers, from a free cocktail to 20% off your bill! With their delightful barteam, this stall was another hit in the Hoodooist’s book.

Shrub and Shutter’s ‘Honey I Shrunk the Kids’

Brixton’s experimental Shrub and Shutter took the Whitley Neill Gin brand from last year’s PKD Bar (thankfully, nobody is ever in the mood for the PKD’s surprisingly racist menu and decor shenanigans) and presented the the Honey I Shrunk the Kids : Whitley Neill Gin, Zuidam Honey Whiskey, honey syrup, lemon, lavender bitters.

The Bedford Square Gardens were perfect for this drink. Lavender and lime break in first, strengthened by the scent from the lavender garnish, and soon settle in with the honey that pairs so wonderfully with the warmer botanicals of the Whitley Neill. Tart to sweet, with hints of floral.

Coq d’Argent’s ‘Far East’

The Far East by Coq d’Argent was probably the most snapped cocktail of the day: U’luvka Vodka with kaffir lime leaves and chilli, sochu with green tea, lemon, agave nectar, decorated with coloured spices and an edible flower. This cocktail deserves all the recognition it got.

First, under the floral canopies of the beautiful stand, the drink seemed perfectly designed for the ‘Summer Edition’ of CitC. The cocktail strutted in with a rosey tartness of the kaffir lime leaves in the crystal crisp U’luvka, with background heavy weight of the sochu, lightened by the green tea’s herbaceousness (and something else…coriander?), ending on a sweet note, with a lingering heat of the chilli infusion (more of a Tabasco heat) and dance of warm spice from the garnish.

If this isn’t on their menu, it ought to be.

Demon, Wise and Partner’s ‘Extra Aged Demon’

Recently opened City basement bar Demon, Wise and Partners swaggered in with their Extra Aged Demon : Evan Williams Extra Aged Whiskey, Chocolate Absinthe Liqueur, Demon, Wise and Partners Bitters. This cocktail just screams DWP, it is so reminiscent of their bar style, with focus on continental flavours less expressed here, bitter aniseed fascinations. Paired with cocoa dusted chocolate truffles, this bourbon muscles in with leather and brown sugar, accentuated by the chocolate, the absinthe liqueur kicking it down to size with some spice from the bitters. More of an indoor cocktail, but one we could relax with on the grass away from the crowd.

The Cocktail Trading Company’s ‘Blend It Like Peckham’

The Cocktail Trading Company (Click HERE for Review!), brought in the Blend It Like Peckham : Chambord, lemon sherbet, egg white, soda, milk. Served out of a slushie machine, the bright pink cocktail with it’s slurpy texture, obviously, had to be served in a shampoo bottle. Because why the hell not. The Major outdid themselves with a surprising drink, well balanced (even if you don’t have a sweet tooth) between the Chambord and lemon sherbet, and who knew how well soda and dairy work once put through a slushie machine?

Loves Company knows how to put a show

Meanwhile, Loves Company (Click HERE for Review!), governed by the excellent Harry Gerakis, brought the beach to London; complete with sand, deckchairs, limbo competitions, ice creams and espresso martinis – now that’s one hell of a stand.

It wasn’t just about the cocktails as each bar created its own particular experience, with an honorable mention going to Barrio Bars – runner up to Loves Company, who put on a silent disco as well as inviting guests to get crafty and decorate tiles that will soon adorn the walls of their new opening in Brixton.

And that’s a wrap! After such a successful Summer Edition, the question is, what will Cocktails in the City be creating for their next exciting installment? God knows I can’t wait till the next CitC.

http://www.cocktailsinthecity.co.uk

Leicester House, Chinatown

Jul24

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, Vietnamese
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Food, Date, Small Groups

I’ve gotten used to this corner of Soho metamorphosing into different hotels each time I visit. Though the last time was a while back when the Talented Mr. Fox resided on the upper floor (Mr. Fox, who is now focusing his energy in the Bethnal Green destination, Peg + Patriot: Click HERE for Review!)

Leicester House has turned the eerie abattoir chic of its previous incarnations to much more welcoming hues that strongly echo the designers’ work at the Firmdale Hotel group with cerulean and flame orange. Screaming European contemporary, the design is not what you’d expect from a restaurant that identifies itself as ‘French-Vietnamese’. In fact, the meal reflects the continental décor more than its South East Asian heritage – but we’ll get to that in a moment. After all, we are a cocktail blog first and foremost:

Seated on a banquette, the Hoodooist could hardly nurse a Sangiovese – handed by the charming and experienced Michael who runs the show with incredible finesse and efficiency – much longer when they word TALISKER screamed out at him from the menu.

Leicester House Chinatown Soho Vietnamese Cocktails

The Smoking Negroni

Beginning with a Smoking Negroni: Talisker 10 yr Whisky mixed in with Campari, sweet vermouth, garnished with an orange twist. The nose is distinctly that of the Skye whisky, thick smoke and brine. The first sip instantly hits you with the same flavours, as well as white pepper peatiness, and pronounced heather as the flavours begin to move to the citrus sweetness of the vermouth and the Campari bitterness. The finish has a lingering malt from the whisky.

The first glass was beautiful – however, a friend on the table with the same cocktail received a drink distinctly imbalanced in comparison to the one above, a lot more heavy on the Campari, and skimping on the vermouth, a more medicinal cocktail was produced.

Done well, the Smoking Negroni is wonderful, though one needs to be very precise.

The Kaffir Gimlet

The Kaffir Gimlet brings together Sipsmith Gin, lime, and Kaffir lime leaves. The nose is beautifully floral, with the playful citrus of the Kaffir leaves. Flavours of strong juniper, marmalade, sweet citrus and even (somehow) rose comes through, with a dry, zesty finish. A drink that manages to be simultaneously rather sweet and dry, and perfect for summer afternoons. Simple and refreshing.

The French ‘Pisco’ Sour is a tragic name for a perfectly good drink. Yes, Armagnac and Pisco are similar in many ways: though the grapes are different, both are distilled from wines to produce intense and ludicrously strong brandies – the name French ‘Pisco’ Sour is a worrying attempt to make it familiar, I suppose.

Armagnac Blanche, lime, sugar and egg white. The wheatiness of the Armagnac still soaks through with its earthy terroir flavours, softened by the lime and sugar – a good aperitif in any case.

The Perfect Calva

Finally, the Perfect Calva mixes Calvados, Sweet and Dry Vermouth, garnished with Grillotines cherries. I think it’s the choice in vermouths here that plays an important part – the finished drink is harsh, confused, and could probably benefit from using Cognac as a base. Though the bar menu at Leicester House focuses on simplicity, this cocktail verges on amateurish.

One realises that being a bar is not what Leicester House was going for, the main focus would be the French-Vietnamese cuisine – which would be interesting considering how impacted Vietnamese food was by the French when colonised. Though the dishes were distinctly Vietnamese, they were also distinctly European in that the Vietnamese flavours of citrus and pungent spice were heavily toned down to the point of becoming an Anglicised palate of ‘Vietnamese’ cuisine (why is there Italian ham here?). Many spices seem to have given way to the use of salt and pepper. A tendency to overcook slightly (particularly scallop) is evident.

That is not to say there were no must-order dishes – a simple and satiating starter of green papaya and daikon salad, along with blackened squid and samphire are excellent options. The cod XO sauce may be cooked to perfection, but lacks punch.

What stood out the most as a hit across the table would easily be the rich dark chocolate pot layered with hazelnut coffee cream. Star.

The Leicester House certainly does not aim at focusing on its bar, although could benefit dramatically with more experienced talent behind it. The tendency to simplicity can be a double edged sword, on one hand easy to knock out and reliable – on the other possibly lacking lustre. But hopefully consistency in the cocktails can improve with practice, since the Smoking Negroni is entirely too good when prepared right.

Also hope to see more of a Vietnamese edge in cocktails, the use of more Eastern flavours and possible the host of Rượu rice liquors that Vietnam has to offer.

Drinks: **-***
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

Leicester House

1 Leicester Street,
London WC2H 7BL

http://www.leicesterhouse.com/

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