Yelp! presents: Dr. Alexander’s Mad Scientist Soirée!

May18

If you were lucky enough to win Highball Hoodoo’s contest for 2 VIP tickets to Yelp’s Mad Scientist Soirée, you certainly won big! 12 food stalls! 7 bars! 9 dessert spots! And a MINI ICE-CREAM FESTIVAL of 7 different icecreamers!

Yelp has an edge over competitors with it giving back to users in the form of its occasional parties, open to press and the most proficient Yelp users, called the Elite, for loyal participation. The Mad Scientist Soirée opened its doors 2 hours earlier to Elite for a VIP session where they could explore the incredible collection of stalls in the own time – This year’s Mad Scientist themed event took place in the open air of the Shoreditch Strongroom – with it’s own ICE CREAM FESTIVAL.
Okay I’m getting ahead of myself. I just really, really like ice cream.

Lab coats donned, the Elite manoeuvre past the immersive theatre company Rumpus, the Party – being the absolutely most delightful dieselpunk engineering maniacs – to stuff themselves on scotch bonnet glazed pork ribs by HotBox London, just falling off the bone – washed down with a shot of vodka from the IceBar London’s ice-sculpture syringe (careful getting that in your beard *cough*).

Kent Crispts know their ways around hazard signs

If you’d rather go for something savoury, crisp companies from all over brought their own unique crisp styles to the table, from the Soffles Pitta chips, to the popped crisps by popchips, or the inimitable flavours of Kent Crisps – from roast beef and spitfire ale, to oyster and vinegar and ooh, the smoked chipotle chilli!

La Polenteria’s chocolate cake!

L’Atelier des Chefs showing you round the sushi mat

Yelp Science Soiree Duke of Delhi Chocolate

The Duke of Delhi has mastered the art of spice and chocolates. Final word.

After a bite of chocolate polenta cake by La Polenteria, grab a sushi rolling lesson from L’Atelier des Chefs before hitting the desserts hard. Harry Brompton’s vodka ice tea in hand, *definitely* grab a bar of the incredible cocoa-wizards of Duke of Delhi, and do NOT miss that dark chocolate and lime (the Hoodooist has always been wary of how chocolatiers handle lime in their chocolate, but the Duke seems to have found a way!). Get over devouring their spiced selection before moving on to something more traditional in the London Marshmallow Company’s S’mores, with their huge collection of varied flavoured mallows to go in! (Can’t turn me away with rosewater on the menu).

Primrose Bakery’s sciency cupcakes!

Yelp Science Soiree Harry Brompton Ice Tea

Harry Brompton’s Ice Tea with picnic season comin’ up

*The reaction when the glass is sweating*

A rival on the dessert front, Primrose Bakery’s ever-popular signature Mars bar Crispies, followed by a spoon of the Fairytale Gourmet’s Envious Queen Himalayan salted caramel, or Tinkerbell popping pixie dust (literally devoured the salted caramel, and the illustrations!). Take a break from the sweet with Smith and Sinclair’s cocktail confectionary! Chewy pastilles with kick, a variety ranging from Spiced Rum (literally like solid Captain Morgan), or the Gin & Tonic (an Aviation you can chew!). Love that Whiskey Sour.

Smitch & Sinclair’s Cocktail Confectionery

Fairy Tale Gourmet’s magical confectionery/

Fairy Tale Gourmet’s Himalayan Salted Caramel.

Callestick Farm’s Clotted Cream Vanilla to die for.

Bubble Tea by Bubbleology while admiring the FRANKENSTEIN’S CAKE by Adam’s Cakes before hitting the ice cream festival? Hit Rumblin’ for a regularly changing naughty rum-n-icecream combo, this time Kraken and Salted Caramel, followed by the Clotted Cream Vanilla icecream by the wonderful Callestick Farm – I mean, that flavour is spot on!

The winner, though? Udderlicious and their Dark Chocolate and Sea Salt – one of the more adventurous ice creams at the party comes with the occasional bite of salt to contrast with the semi-sweet dark chocolate, washed down by a milkshake by Shaken Udder. Nom.

Literally cannot move now.

Udderlicious’s Dark Chocolate and Sea Salt just wins.

Last year’s Elite Summer Garden Party (Click HERE for Review!) was loads of fun, but this was downright debauched! Perpetually with a cocktail in one hand and a dessert in the other, Yelp! London outdid themselves at the Mad Scientist Soirée. A spectacular way to discover more of the foodie world, and look forward to more!
Want in? Either become a Yelp! Elite, or Follow Highball Hoodoo for a chance to win in the future!

For information on becoming a Yelp Elite, see http://www.yelp.co.uk/elite

Joe’s Southern Kitchen & JAILBIRD, Kentish Town

May4

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, American
Damage: £ – ££
Ideal for: Small Groups, Food, Hangover, Comfort Food

The 2014 trend of the American South goes strong the Joe’s Southern Kitchen opens in Kentish Town, with the cocktail bar JAILBIRD downstairs (with booths in the once-jail-cells!) Whereas its Covent Garden cousin goes for a more anju style menu, with more small plates, the Kentish Town branch is more for a proper face-stuffing.

The cuisine certainly isn’t meant to be taken apart and analysed, but a hearty, cheese-soaked, indulgent comfort-feast for a hangover (great. Now I want it after a hangover.)

Expect clotted cream and Red Leicester in your gooey corn spoon bread, and more Red Leicester with 3 other cheeses in the ooziest of mac n cheeses (one of the more addictive MnC’s I’ve had). Poached egg, dijonnaise and red onion jam sits on the short rib that will change your opinion of meatloaf, and for many, the question of why on god’s green earth you’d serve waffles with chicken will be answered.

I didn’t quite get the answer, but it didn’t really matter because BOURBON MAPLE SYRUP.

…..

BOURBON MAPLE SYRUP.

Sorry, I just get very excited about it.

….
Oh yes, cocktails!

The list in the restaurant upstairs is the same as downstairs, and are heavily reliant on Jim Beam and Stolichnaya. The Hoodooist couldn’t help but feel the ingredients seemed a bit muddled.

One that stood out from the messier drinks was a confident Bullish Negroni: Bulleit Rye, Campari, Antica Formula vermouth. Which was…surprising. Smooth, pleasant, self-assured. The smokiness of the Bulleit Rye is very much present, but the spicy tobacco flavour is tame in comparison to the other ingredients. It’s light sweetness of fruits and orange zest plays a part alongside the Campari – which is immediately followed by the winter spices of the Antica Formula that continue into the length of bitter oranges and cherries. The first sip might seem foreign, but instantly becomes very familiar and welcoming.

The Bullish Negroni

Two Old Fashioneds next, a Knob Creek, and a Woodford Reserve. The Knob Creek is up for anything, dry, fiery flavours come through – firewood and the sound of a straight razor dragged across a leather-strop. Followed by a nutty spice and oak. On the other hand, the Woodford Reserve is mellowed too far (at least in the Hoodooist’s opinion), removing all the pleasurable rye, ginger or coffee notes, leaving only a wintery sweetness.

Pause for obligatory Jim Beam White Label Pickleback. A 5GBP Margarita does the job (if you’re being charged more than a max of 6 pounds for a Margarita, someone’s cheating you). A sip of a friend’s Lucky Stag, though (Jim Beam Red Stag, Maraschino, egg white, lemon, sugar) was cringey.

Knob Creek, and Woodford Reserve Old Fashioneds

Killer desserts roll in – Peanut Butter Pie with Chantilly cream, Pecan Pie with Jim Beam Honey cream, and Iced Honeycomb and Chocolate Parfait Sandwich help you find your dessert stomach as your dessert cocktails arrive.

The Espresso Martini: Stoli vodka, Kahlua, sugar syrup and espresso use the spirits I would normally avoid for the cocktail (there are far more impressive coffee spirits out there) – though is still moderately successful. Unfortunately, the Devil’s Frappe doesn’t work particularly well, and went unfinished – coffee infused Jim Beam, chocolate cookie syrup, espresso, double cream and milk – coming off powdery and awkward.

Picklebacks!

This all makes Joe’s Southern Kitchen’s drinks difficult to rate. Comfort food makes the experience a lot of fun, and one pays less attention to the drinks, absolutely – but as a cocktail blog, unfortunately a decision has to be made. I found the menu to be a bit all over the place, and the classics most tempting to order. The Old Fashioneds and Margarita turned out rather well (as long as you know your whisky, and very few can ruin a Margarita). And I wish I saw more drinks in the style of the Bullish Negroni.

The other cocktails still leave much to be desired.

I’d return to stuff my face with a whisky in my hand, or take on classic cocktails. Which isn’t necessarily undesirable!

Service is attentive, explanatory, conversational – and somewhat formal, considering the surroundings – no complaints here!

….

BOURBON MAPLE SYRUP.

Drinks: **-***
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ****

Joe’s Southern Kitchen

300 Kentish Town Road,
London NW5 2TG.

http://joessouthernkitchen.co.uk/

Big Fernand, Fitzrovia

Apr13

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, French
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Wine, Food, Burgers

Okay. I really don’t want to tell anyone else how wonderful this Big Fernand is.

Though, yes, the Hoodooist tends to primarily review bars, it is hard to pass up talking about what is quickly becoming his favourite burger joint in London (outside Le Bun, but that’s another story, click HERE for a Le Bun review!)

Crossing the channel, the Parisian burger venture brings with it a wonderful selection of French wines, cheeses, savoir faire – and let’s not forget, hamburgés.

Downstairs, black is accented with wooden features down an aisle with its six-person burger assembly line from counter to server, decorated with classic French signage and exposed bulb lighting. Upstairs, the Hoodooist’s dream studio, a floral dining room, with vintage portraits and focal point fireplace surround a dining table perfect for an event. I could move right in tomorrow if I could.

With meat cooked all the way from blue rare to well done – and we mean French blue rare, no kidding around here – burgers utilise beef, veal, lamb, chicken and a vegetarian option. And other than the carefully constructed 6 on-menu choices, diners get a ‘build a burger’ option to design their own. With a selection of various sauces and several herbs, the cheeses make some of the most exciting choices from farmhouse goat cheese, herbal Tomme de Savoie, sweet blue Fourme d’Ambert to the quintessential oozy Raclette.

Beginning with the slightly formidable Le Bartholomé, beef meets Raclette, bacon, carmelised onions, chives, and topped with home-made barbecue and cocktail sauce. A hefty beast, the Bartholomé came cooked to a medium-rare perfection, oozing with the softly-sweet Raclette and the sauces that seem to complement each other so surprisingly well – and with that subtle kick of the chives. The Bartholomé finds a way to take a classic, and stick to a classic formula, while twisting it with new flavours to give us a continental take on a gourmet bacon burger.

And because one wasn’t enough (even with a side of perfectly seasoned spiced fries) – Le Victor enters the arena, the rose veal topped with blue Fourme d’Ambert cheese, caramelised onions, coriander and home-made sweet mayonnaise. Corianderphobes do not panic – the herb doesn’t scream at you, but nudges lightly under the burger’s sweeter ingredients. An excellent approach to a veal burger (and that cheese!).

And to go with the concluding cheese plates, the wines, supplied by Michel Chapoutier, included the house red Marius, and the Petite Ruche 2012.

The Marius is a bold wine, a Grenache/Syrah, the nose is almost intimidating. The palate is powerful, a complex array of spiciness, berries and a certain darkness, balanced lightly by the floral Grenache. Not necessarily the Hoodooist’s favourite, especially when the beautiful Petite Ruche is on offer.

The Petite Ruche 2012 is built to be served with meat. Unmistakably Rhone, chewy and dry with fabulous full body. A palate of ripe red berries and cassis, with overlaps of spice and pepper, and something drier, perhaps tobacco. Almost deceptively easy to drink, I can’t imagine dining here without a bottle of the Ruche on the table.

Service is absolutely wonderful. Downstairs, the several Fernands walk you through the process on the assembly line where you collect your burgers, and upstairs, they make delightful hosts – your glasses are always full, and so are your bellies – chances are, you’ll go for a second hamburgé before the night’s out.

I mean, how can you help yourself?

Drinks: ****
Food: *****
Atmosphere: Downstairs: ***, Upstairs: *****
Service: *****

Big Fernand

19 Percy Street, Fitzrovia,
London, W1T 1DY

http://www.bigfernand.co.uk

Quaglino’s, Mayfair

Apr2

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant
Damage: ££-£££
Ideal for: Food, Live Music, Date, Small Groups, Large Groups

A 3.5million pound face-lift later, Quaglino’s has reinvented itself into the enormous, Fashion Week meets fin de siècle-stage and live music venue it is today.

Compared to the airy, minimalist, marble and mirror affair it was before, the updated Quaglino’s has developed a rather cabaret style vibe with heavy drapes and dark walls – though it could be bit more cosy now, I’d want a table hushed away, since it does risk being slightly on the ‘oppressive side of plush’, if I communicate that idea correctly.

Nonetheless, the bar upstairs is a vantage point over the main arena of the venue, and one way of avoiding the hustle and bustle downstairs. A dimly lit space, where your best bet is sitting up at the bar, where service from the team, Milos and Davide, is en pointe. Conversational, effervescent, and always up to help.

Featuring the Diplomatico Rum range

This day, Ambassador of Diplomatico Rum, Jon Lister, introduces three specials (at 7.50 each) added to Quaglino’s already lengthy cocktail menu – all using the rum range from Diplomatico, exhibiting their versatility.

The Final Word

Beginning with a twist on a classic, the Final Word demonstrates that rums can indeed make excellent aperitifs – by substituting rum for gin in a ‘Last Word’. Diplomatico blanco, Green Chartreuse, St. Germain Elderflower and fresh citrus – is almost deceptively similar to a Last Word (going to show you how reliant on Chartreuse the cocktail actually is!). The rum, however, softens and sweetens the edges slightly, making it a fantastic introduction to those afraid of the sour and dry edges of many gin based aperitifs.

The Final Word still keeps a bit of an edge with the peppery notes of the blanco, but its softer vanilla and sugar round out the cocktail for the drinker less accustomed to Last Words.

The Swanky Panky

The Swanky Panky twists the classic Hanky Panky to rum as well. If Swanky Panky sounds oddly familiar, though – you’ve probably been watching too much of Bob’s Burgers.

“You ever hear of a cocktail called the Swanky Panky? It’s made with two parts vermouth-“
“Teddy, Teddy, Teddy. Get me out of here.”

And it is indeed made with vermouth – Diplomatico Reserva, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, and Fernet Branca. Whereas the Reserva makes an initial sugary appearance, it’s immediately subjugated by the Cocchi – orange peel and menthol suddenly dominate the cocktail, followed by the herbal and bitter flavours of gentian and quinine from the Fernet. This cocktail is nothing like what the Hoodooist expected it to be initially (smoother mouthfeel, slightly sweeter, less herbal), and instead takes a much sharper, minty flavour.

The Diplomatico Old Fashioned

Now this one is a bit more complex, a fantastic digestif, and the ‘hug goodbye’ of cocktails – the Diplomatico Old Fashioned gives us Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva (both natural and infused with ground coffee), sweet sherry (Pedro Ximinez, if I’m correct), and Mozart chocolate bitters.

One could easily replace dessert with this drink. Though sweet (very sweet), not sickly or overbearingly so. Though Mozart has a tendency to be rather pungent, it collaborates well in this drink, helping balance out the sweetness of the sherry and the Exclusiva, as does the bitterness of the Arabica.

The vanilla, figs, and various mince-pie-esque notes of the rum are still very much present – really, this drink is dessert in a glass, covering all bases of the course, coffee and little glass of sherry.

Wonderful, though its powerful flavours means it did take the Hoodooist a good half hour to take this one down.

The regular cocktail menu at Quaglino’s is fairly long, and runs at about 12.50 GBP per drink – themed by the era of the cocktail’s release.

The Fresh As a Daisy tastes exactly how you’d expect it to – Hendrick’s gin. Muddled cucumber, elderflower liqueur and apple juice – long, refreshing, simple, classic.

The RAF got bit of an update here, Botanist gin, Maraschino liqueur, lemon juice, egg white and violette liqueur – personally couldn’t stomach it, simultaneously too sour and too sweet, bit overwhelming. I suppose if you like your drinks very, very sweet, this is it.

The RAF

However, winner of the evening was easily the Fisherman – competitor in this year’s World Class Diageo cocktail competition. Talisker 10yr whisky, sage infused Cocchi Americano, a splash of Pedro Ximinez and bitters. Brilliant – absolutely wonderfully constructed. The nose is heavily leaning on the Talisker, smoky and thick, with an island beach salty touch. The drink keeps the Talisker’s intense spicy peat, with a long malty finish – smoothed out by the Cocchi Americano and its accompanying bitter quinine kick, all balanced out wonderfully with that touch of sherry for a sweeter overlay toward the end of the sip that coats the tongue.

The Fisherman

I suppose what you must keep in mind is that the cocktails on offer at Quaglino’s are massively varied (though they lean towards the sweet and many Sours), and with the wonderful service, will be willing to knock up any classics you need. Thinking of returning for a live band and another Fisherman!

Drinks: ***-****
Atmosphere: ***-****
Service: *****
Quaglino’s

16 Bury Street, Mayfair
London SW1Y 6AJ

http://www.quaglinos-restaurant.co.uk/

Bunnychow, Soho

Mar23

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, South African
Damage: £
Ideal for: Food, Date, Bunnies

The popular Bunny truck has gotten a foothold in Soho to open the new Bunnychow Bar on Wardour Street! Serving up South African Durban street food, Bunnychow also offers various South African snacks and mixed juices with added spirits if so liked.

Bunnies themselves are pretty brilliant – a mini-scooped out loaf of bread – all healthy options! From charcoal brioche, to matcha green tea loaf – packed with various fillings with international influences thanks to the trade route passing from India through Cape Town to Europe. Served with a slaw on the side at 6 pounds what’s not to love? You’d be surprised how filling a bunny is.

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A Bobotie Meatball Bunny gets you beef slathered with signature Nokey Gland BBQ sauce, with cloves, nutmeg and pepper, and a Chakalaka Bunny brings in the Indian flavours with spicy chicken and ginger, garlic, chilli and lemon, with a Peri Peri sauce – and if it ain’t spicy enough, you haven’t tried their hot sauce (yowza). Hell, the Hoodooist’d pop by just to take away a side of chewy Biltong. Don’t worry, the recently added Veggie option of roasted aubergine, butternut squash, fennel and onion and quinoa, served in a courgette and pea sauce is on the menu – let’s not forget gluten-free and bread-free options!

The menu is meant to be short, simple and specific – and thankfully the recent addition of a dark chocolate part in a mini brioche is a great bitter-sweet dessert to finish off your spicy meal.

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Cocktails run at 5 pounds each! Bunnychow isn’t a cocktail bar, so the simplest combinations work: bottled mixed drinks come in for 3 pounds, with a measure of spirit thrown in for another 2 quid.

An Invictus – Greek Yoghurt, nut and raisin mix, chilli and mint- with a measure of spicy rum – comes up a as a spicy side to your already spicy meal. On the other hand, a Cucumber Mojito – Cucumber, mint, elderflower, lemon and lime juice – ticks all the right boxes! A bright, spry drink, wins this round.

I certainly see myself returning for a Madiba – Orange, vanilla elderflower, lemon and lime juice in the summer.

The Soho Bunnychow Bar itself is miniscule, and simplistic, with very outdoor furniture and the occasional Donnie Darko Frank mask (Oookay.), and service is excellent, helpful and explanatory.

For a little pitstop to grab a bite before running off to your next adventure, or some much needed protein and carbs after a hard day’s drinking – Bunnychow is an excellent addition, and hopefully fixture, in Soho’s food scene.

Drinks: *** (Value for money!)
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ****

Bunnychow

74 Wardour Street, Soho,
London W1F 0TE

http://bunnychow.com/

Jackson + Rye, Soho

Mar19

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, American
Damage: £ (for cocktails)
Ideal for: Rye/Whiskey, Food, Date, Small Groups

Jackson + Rye has been a Soho staple for a while now, and seems to be almost constantly full – with good reason! The American South meets a Wild West saloon meets a glance of Corbin and King styled suaveness results in J+R’s dimly lit, two-floor hardwood den and take on a zinc bar.

Something about the décor is still very European – even the menu is set out very brasserie-style, though the dishes themselves are from the hearty South. Chilli and garlic grilled shrimp on a bed of grits and sweetcorn and showered with shallots accompanied by and easy and citrusy Rittenhouse Rye to cut through the grits without over powering it. A main of buttermilk fried chicken and sweet potato fries with the warm spiciness of High West Double Rye, and finally, pecan pie with a spectacular rye whiskey ice cream alongside a thick, sugary sweet Smooth Ambler Old Scout Rye.

Background: Rittenhouse Rye Manhattan; Foregorund: Woodford Reserve Rye Old Fashioned

For cocktails, the evening begins and ends with a Rittenhouse Rye Manhattan (classic Gangster recipe) of whiskey, Martini Rosso and Luxardo Maraschino to provide a smooth, sweet, but bold take on the Manhattan that isn’t served in London that often lest asked for.

Finally, a classic Woodford Reserve Rye Old Fashioned is heady and not kidding around with the citrus – classic in every sense of the word.

Besides the (incredibly) filling meal, a rye whiskey tasting that will soon be a regular attraction at Jackson + Rye!

A preview got us a history of rye, and the relationship between the UK and the USA regarding rye imports – and a tasting of four ryes;

Tasting of four Ryes

Beginning with an everyday Jim Beam Rye, it comes off a bit more like a bourbon than a rye, a bit thin and flat. The nose is a myriad of spices, the palate begins with a vanilla sweetness, then a collection of spices and distinct warmth and a peppery finish.

The High West Double Rye is a lot more fun – with an immense rye content, you can smell the spiciness from a mile away, as well as a caramel. The mixture of old and young whiskeys that make HWDR result in a contradictory mix of powerful pepper and cinnamon, as well as a thick honey and nutty caramel. A fun ride, this one!

Bulleit makes an appearance – more famous for their bourbon, their new rye is popping up everywhere in London these days. (Personal note? I feel I’m a bigger fan of their bourbon.) Initially, you get kicked in the face with the spice and…tobacco? Followed by a light sweetness of fruits, strongly orange zest. All smoky.

Finally, the Smooth Angler Old Scout 7yr arrives to the table. Probably the most unique in the tasting, this was also the sweetest. It comes off in the nose too, chocolatey. The palate is as well, along with Demerara sugar, but still warming and spicy. A fantastic digestif.

Fun, conversational, and informative, the quality service at the tasting extends to the bartenders upstairs. No complaints here.

Jackson + Rye provides a beautiful environment (if not a bit noisy, it’s crowded enough, the Imelda May soundtrack doesn’t have to be as loud), with excellent service – substantial meals with quality cocktails and an excellent selection of ryes. And the tasting – excellent for introductions to rye – have a confident, conversational environment to both learn, *and* get drunk in. What’s not to love?

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: ***-****
Service: ****

Jackson + Rye

56 Wardour Street, Soho,
London W1D 4JF

http://www.jacksonrye.com/

Kilburn Ironworks, Kilburn

Mar16

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Small Groups, Large Groups, Date, Food, Beer

Kilburn gets the East London bare-wood/exposed brick treatment with its Ironworks! Copper stills and lighting dot the area around a beautifully displayed bar, with a spectacular collection of spirits. Service is smooth, polite, and informative – commendable, all in all.

Food is hearty and meaty, and the craft beer numerous. Meantime, Camden, Beavertown, a great selection for the beer fan, and even better: their beer cocktails (think Monkey Shoulder, toasted porter reduction, Anspach and Hobday Smoked Brown, Gosling’s Black Seal rum and lemon).

But panic not, there are non-beer cocktails here too! And excellent ones.

L-R: The Stoke Me A Clipper; and the Smoked Manhattan

The list is short, but varied – been considered carefully so that there’s something here for everyone – great job on creating this menu.

The first spirit-heavy Stoke Me A Clipper brings Four Roses bourbon, Pedro Ximinez sherry, Cocchi Americano and Marca Negra Mezcal served short and straight up with lemon twist. Now this is a drink! Right up the Hoodooist’s alley, the nose is heavy on the Four Roses, with hints of caramel and orange. Palate-wise, we get the dryness of the Cocchi, balanced wonderfully with bourbon’s oak, honeyed sweetness and winter spices, with a sudden underlying whisper of the mezcal’s roasted agave – finally lacquered with the lick of sweetness from the sherry. A spectacular balance of flavours.

The drink that turned out to a massive hit across the table was the Kilburn Crude – El Dorado 5yr rum, Taylor’s Velvet Falernum, ginger beer reduction, Angostura bitters on the rocks. A sweet drink for those who generally don’t do sweet, this satisfies anyone’s dessert craving whether or not you have a sweet tooth. The El Dorado contributes most to the drink, rich and buttery sweet, balanced well with the bitterness from the Angostura and Falernum – the hints of ginger beer doing fantastically (thank god for reductions, who wants to dilute drinks?). An absolute must if you visit the Ironworks.

The Kilburn Crude

Finally, an off menu Smoked Manhattan compared less to the other two cocktails, but I suspect it is more a matter of taste than of quality – if you like your Manhattans dry, I say go for it – though I think I’d have preferred it more on the perfect-side, meself.

The rest of menu provides its share of fizzes, tiki twists, takes on espresso martinis, the shebang – appreciate the carefully selected drinks highly.

It’s great to see the Ironworks arrive in the area for the Hoodooist who finds himself in the area for academic reasons without many places to go to after – with late hours, affordable prices, great service and excellent cocktails – what’s there to complain about? A definite bar to return to.

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Service: ****

Kilburn Ironworks,

332 Kilburn High Road,
London, NW6 2QN

http://www.kilburnironworks.co.uk/landing

Bó Drake, Soho

Mar9

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, Mexican, Korean
Damage: ££ (for cocktails)
Ideal for: Food, Small Groups, Dry cocktails, Soju

Long awaited Jan Lee Koreo-Mexican joint finally opens on Soho’s Greek Street! After a lot of date push-backs, the venue opened just in time for the Lunar New Year and participated in the Baijiu Cocktail Week 2015 (Click HERE for Review!).

Casual and chilled out: Stripped back décor, a long bar perfect for an evening hang out for some anju, and curling around with multiple seats for groups to hang out. A few low tables on the right, and a cavern in the back for larger groups, with the occasional blast of heat from the smoking in the kitchen. And participating in the delightful return of disco and cheese (much like the playlist at Cocktail Trading Co., click HERE for Review!) – the Hoodooist loves the atmosphere here. Especially just before sunset, when the light is just right. At night, all the venue’s light seems to come from the bar, where Demetris and Darren are either shaking or smoking for their soju-focused menu and the repeatedly changing bar-specials up on the board.

Bo Drake’s Bo Ssam and Brisket Bao

Since we’re cocktail-focused, we’ll give food only a glancing look: a major focus on Korean and Mexican cuisine, Bo Drake takes a cuisine popular in Seoul and among the Aenikkaeng immigrants in Mexico and finally brings it to London. We have to admit – the ‘Smalls’ were our favourite part of the menu, by far. The Mushroom Tostada stole the show with enoki mushrooms and red pepper slathered in cheese and sesame butter, followed by the Brisket Bao with their 12 hour beef, the cucumber adding a delightful contrast to the general sweetness of the dish. The Kimchi Quesadilla was hit-or-miss with the meagre filling. I’d return entirely for drinks and Smalls.

In terms of mains, I couldn’t help but feel they could be less expensive for what is provided (at the 13 pound mark and above). The Bobo Chicken was a tad dry, but with a loud accompanying sauce. However the Bo Ssam was classic, the ssamjang just spicy enough. Spectacular pickling of the kimchi, and rice was wonderful. And the dessert offering is limited to a sesame soft-serve ice cream, which after all the BBQ and warm flavours is absolutely perfect. Couldn’t think of a better end to the meal.

Onto the cocktails!

The short list is very soju focused, but Demetris is more than happy to prep other classics for you, or shake something up himself.

The signature Soju de la Vida slushie – mezcal, soju, strawberry slush – might *just* convert the Hoodooist to a slushie fan. The mezcal is exactly what we need to spice up the tedious margarita slushie trend – adding an intense smokiness to the sweet. Brainfreeze material, great for dessert on the way out.

The Soju de la Vida slushie

The Soju Fiction screamed out to me, so absolutely had to order the Yamazaki 12, soju, bamboo syrup and Antica Formula vermouth concoction. Whisky nose. Smoky, both from the whisky and the added smoking of the drink. Dry, the Antica Formula’s sweetness stands out. I’ve yet to decide how I feel about this drink – it isn’t unpleasant, certainly not. But there is one thing that keeps nagging at me. I think it is the smoking of the drink – it interferes with the otherwise excellent flavours of the cocktail that are in themselves, quite relaxed and laid back. Good cocktail, less or no smoke, please.

L-R: The El Greco; the Soju Fiction

Then from the temporary ‘Bar Specials’ on the chalkboard, the El Greco certainly went for some very Hellenic flavours: Metaxa 7yr brandy, Mastiha, Cocchi Americano, Cointreau and orange bitters – there is a word for this that escapes me. Sylvan. It screams a decadent springtime with saps bursting out of treebarks, with the air filled with pollen and petals – as well as the on-coming heat of summer and the sickly sweetness of bees nesting in lion corpses. Debauched and over the top, enjoyed it, but couldn’t finish it with the intensity of flavours – I’d serve this in a Tokaji glass.

The Metaxa 7’s brandy/muscat wine mix with its range of sweet botanicals (especially rose) stands out strongly – spicy on the sides of the tongue. Only reinforced by the gum mastic of the Mastiha (Mastika. Mastikha.); which would be the source of the resinous chewiness. The Cocchi Americano is absolutely necessary to thin the drink a bit and assault the back of the throat with the Cointreau. Garnished with petals, the drink is intensely floral and fruity, but with sweet, thick texture. Again, as enjoyable as it was, there is too much of a good thing, and could be served in smaller glasses. An acquired taste, I’d think.

Smoked Hibiki and Vermouth

When asked for a whisky drink off-menu, the Hoodooist was provided with blend of Hibiki, Noilly Prat vermouth, smoked with Hickory and Cherry wood, and garnished with the spiciest damn jalapeno this side of hell. Nose was apple, maybe cinnamon (or was that the jalapeno?). A Dry Manhattan minus the bitters – I decided to drop the now-bitten Jalapeno in for a bit of kick – a slow drink, the Hibiki’s fermented fruits stand out, and it’s nuttiness. Malty, slightly, balanced against the Noilly Prat’s piney flavours. A decent dry drink you want to really take your time with, with a batch of nuts, preferably.

Finally, a classic Negroni – dry, smooth. Just right.

There is a distinct attraction to dryness in the menu – which Bo Drake does best, in comparison to the other drinks, I’d say. The drinks are all at the tipping point into great – but with the very good price range of 8-9 pounds, are just right. I certainly wouldn’t charge more than that. I’d suggest to stick with the drier drinks for their complexity and slow-sipping.

As for service – wonderful. It’s what defines the venue and make me want to return. Hostess Martina steals the show with her liveliness and humour, and will go out of her way to accommodate the diners. Demetris and Darren are incredibly entertaining and bring a casual dive element of fun to a venue of complex cocktails (which in London, for some reason, many feel are mutually exclusive). Between mezcal shots and agave worms, their chemistry is brilliant to be a part of and make sitting at the bar a necessity – especially with their experimental attitude to cocktails.

The family at Bo Drake make visiting a pleasure, and see it as a space to pop by in the afternoons for a drink and nibble at the mushroom tostada or bao (which, should totally be offered for take away!). The casual vibe at Bo Drake is a fun pairing with the more complex menu of both food and cocktails, and recommend a visit – note: a new cocktail menu is expected in a couple of weeks, and with the regularly changing bar specials, expect the menu to be generally rather mercurial and ever-changing.

Drinks: *** – ****
Atmosphere: ***
Service: *****

Bo Drake

6 Greek Street, Soho
London W1D 4DE

http://www.bodrake.co.uk/

Le Chalet Pop up @ Selfridges, Bond Street

Jan29

Type of Bar: Pop up, Winter, Bar/Restaurant
Damage: ££
Ideal for: Hot Chocolate, Date, Small Groups, Food

One more month of winter!

With the weather getting harsher and seeming to go on forever, the Hoodooist thought we better cover another warm-up cocktail spot for the rest of the season.

The Le Chalet bar/restaurant pop up at Selfridges has been set up by the excellent Q Grill London on the roof of the department store with its own express lift to hot choctails and winter comfort food. A becouched and bequilted indoors and heated outdoors make for a versatile experience regardless of the weather outside.

Foreground: ‘The Dominican’; Background: ‘The Hazelnut’

Let’s get down to business though, in drinks, Le Chalet offers either winter-themed cocktails, or boozy hot chocolate – not as thick and indulgent as the hot chocolate at Floridita’s Ski Chalet Pop up (Click HERE for Review!), but making them easier to drink here. The most successful of the hot choctails tasted was easily the Hazelnut, hazelnut liqueur, almond liqueur, dark chocolate liqueur – tasting pretty much like a liquid Ferrero Rocher. A perfect dessert drink.

The Dominican adds Brugal spiced rum and cinnamon liqueur to the hot chocolate, to warm you up nicely – however, there seems to be some conflict in flavour, although this could be up to personal taste. The rum brings the toffee and caramel, as well as some pepper, maybe Demerara? Worth trying out to make one’s mind up. An enjoyable topping of whipped cream and cinnamon.

The Choc-work Orange (brilliant): Orange liqueur and dark chocolate liqueur in a hot chocolate: somehow, the weakest of the three – too intense on the orange, doesn’t quite work.

‘The Honeycomb Old Fashioned’, the ‘Gingerbread Slipper’, ‘The Choc-Work Orange’

Let’s check out the cocktails:

The Honeycomb Old Fashioned is actually a great idea: Maker’s Mark whiskey, whisky barrel aged bitters, and instead of sugar, a slowly melting slab of honeycomb. Initially the Maker’s Mark is intense, but increases in honey sweetness as the honeycomb melts away. Halfway through, the honeycomb becomes intense with a buttery sweetness, and takes longer to finish. Give yourself a good while to drink this, and though great when bitterly cold, I can’t imagine having something so dense and sweet on a warmer day.

Brugal spiced rum, gingerbread, lemon and egg white make up the Gingerbread Slipper, not too a fairly citrus drink that takes the edge off the lemon with the gingerbread, that mainly mellows it out. Nothing complex, and lacking a bit of character.

Service-wise, no complaints. In summary, Le Chalet is a great place to pop by when in the area before the end of February, hot choctails to enjoy after a wee bit of shopping.

Drinks: ***
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ***

Selfridges London

400 Oxford Street,
London, W1A 1AB

http://www.selfridges.com/content/le-chalet

The Joint, Marylebone

Jan18

Type of Bar: Bar/Restaurant, BBQ
Damage: £
Ideal for: Food, Small Groups

Exposed brick, bare wood, wall art, refectory tables and festoon lighting – perfectly average day in Hackney, but then you realise you’re in Marylebone.

The doors into the new Joint just a few minutes away from Bond Street operate like a kind of wormhole into east London or Brixton Village, uncannily – The Joint is a fantastic addition to west London’s repertoire. Turns out, the Joint *was* a pop up in the Brixton Village Market, specialising in American BBQ and mastering the slow-cooked pulled pork burger, now with more than one permanent site in London with good reason.

On the note of Brixton, one of the most fascinating aspects of the Joint is the buns, the signature fig and vanilla sourdough buns are prepared by the Bad Boys Bakery of Brixton Prison – where co-founder Daniel Fiteni runs a rehabilitation program to employ former-inmates as apprentices once released.

Thanks to the benches and messy meals, you want to come here with a group of friends; it’s the best way to make the most of the fun atmosphere. A smallish venue it may be, but if you possess an entire table (of 8, normally), it feels surprisingly private.

Grabbing myself a beef brisket with smoked aioli, bacon relish and salad in a potato bun, I find myself not thinking straight for a good hour – prepared fantastically, with sides of spiced-just-right hot wings, cob, fries, onion rings and the tenderest of ribs. The Hoodooist is in love.

But let’s get onto what we’re here for: the cocktails.

The Joint offers a short, well-priced list of drinks, with a tendency to long drinks, served casually, often colour coded with straws.

The Figgy Old Fashioned was a guaranteed choice for first drink: Bourbon (Bulleit, I suspect) and Angostura bitters, naturally with figs and vanilla, and interesting combo. The vanilla itself is more aromatic, and comes into play late in the game. The fig is subtle, yet unmistakable. It hadn’t crossed my mind that it would go so incredibly well as an Old Fashioned, but was pleasantly surprised. Highly recommended.

The White Sangria, not here is an intriguing combo: Chenin Blanc, Crème de Peche, mint, berries and sprite. Crème de Peche is a great choice to complement the Chenin Blanc’s peach flavours. After the initial intense punch of peach, the berries and mint enter for a brief moment to eventually make way for the dry acidity of the Chenin Blanc. A light cocktail perfect for the early afternoon, it is also a sneaky one, getting you tipsier faster than you thought.

L-R: Figgy Old Fashioned; White Sangria

Chilli and Margaritas have always been a good combo, and so is the Scotch Tommy’s. A Tommy’s Margarita (tequila, agave, lime) with lemongrass and scotch bonnet pepper, you get a bright, zesty drink with some serious kick! The initial savoury, yet innocuous, lemongrass suddenly bursts into a fun spice from the scotch bonnet before subsiding again to enjoy the tequila. Love it.

I look forward to return and try out the Peppertown: Rum, pink grapefruit juice and black peppercorn syrup.

The Bloody Bacon

Unfortunately, there was a hiccup with the Soft Punch, which is ill-conceived from the outset really: vanilla infused vodka, absinthe, honey and lemon. A lemsipesque drink that is an unpalatable mish-mash of flavours. The confusion of flavours was a similar problem faced by the Bloody Bacon, a shot of bacon-infused vodka with slat rim followed by a spicy tomato juice chaser. Sounding like a deconstructed Bloody Mary, it doesn’t quite work in shot form.
But who cares, with the Figgy Old Fashioned, Scotch Tommy’s and White Sangria being excellent, it’s easy to give the above a miss.

Service was smooth, polite, but could do with another server, especially if ever as full as they were that night. Nonetheless, no worries about the orders.

In short? The Joint is a wonderful new space for Marylebone, uncharacteristic as it is for the area. They might not be the most complex of drinks; simplicity is on their side, being effective and with excellent value for money. Devilishly delicious barbeque, it’s great to have a place to escape to from crowded Bond Street.

Drinks: ****
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ***

The Joint Marylebone

19 New Cavendish Street,
London, W1G 9TZ.

http://the-joint.co/

Highball Hoodoo

London, Cocktails, you know the drill

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